Tire question for Norval
I want to modify my suspension, and your method seems to be the most straight forward.
What the longer spindle does is reposition the upper balljoint so the upper arm has a better angle, bringing the IC inboard instead of the stock outboard. This ensures a negative camber gain on bump (desired).
The ride height is ONLY dependant on the spindle, lower arm and the coil spring. Since there is no change made in the spindle axis height in respect to the lower balljoint ride height stays the same. Only the upper piece of the spindle is changed. What a real drop spindle does is reposition the axis higher up the upright, that WILL change all the suspensions geometry settings (camer, looking at front)
[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 7:39 AM 11/20/2003]
Good to here that's not the case here, I love the idea.
This summer with the extended ball joints I really tried to remove the bump steer but was still left with 5/16 inch at the worst situation.
'This winter I can do a better job of removing that 5/16 at the same time as the spindles go in.
My ride height will be the same as now, I will set camber at -.75. The slotted A arm cross shafts gave me 5 degrees of positive camber without shims and I will try to keep that setting.
As for tire wear only next summer will tell but at home with the caster/camber gage installed and no spring in the front I can measure camber gain and then know what to expect.








