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Well, I was trying to work off some of that Thanksgiving meal today by taking down the spare tire and familiarizing myself with my next project when there it was.....
:eek: :mad :cuss
Can somebody take the time to give me the steps and some key points for removing the cross member so I can get it to the shop to have it drilled out??
This is my first vette and first time rebuilding the rear suspension!
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (c3-4me)
Why not just remove it the way it is?
Step 1: Get an extended length drill bit sized for a suitable easy out, available at most hardware stores. The tapered square easy outs have always worked best for me.
Step 2: Center punch and drill a hole in the CENTER of the broken bolt from the bottom side of the retainer plate.
Step 3: Heat the snot out of the flange AROUND the broken bolt with an oxy/acetylene torch, or try soaking with a good penetrating oil for a few days before starting the project.
Step 4: Apply the easy out using a suitably sized 1/4" drive extension, ratchet or breaker bar, and 8 point socket.
Step 5: If the above won't move the bolt, you can always drill and re-tap the hole providing the hole was in the CENTER (VERY IMPORTANT) Using the same procedure: extended length bit, extension, 8 point socket, etc.
Step 6: replace the bolt with a proper length GRADE 8 bolt.
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (Big Fish)
Thanks, but do you think after 23 years and 95,000 miles I will be able to get it out with an 'easy out'? I haven't had much luck with them in the past. I would much rather try your ides, and since I will be taking the spring and everything off anyway, I shouldn't need all the taper length drill and stuff to reach in. I don't feel very confortable though with a torch around the gas tank. :blueangel:
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (Big Fish)
No harm in trying the easy out first. I also never had much luck with them, though.
If the easy out fails, drill the bolt out and get a heli-coil kit. Follow the instructions using the correct drill bit and tap and with the heli-coil in there the repair is stronger than it ever was. Replace all bolts with new grade 8 stainless bolts and use copper based anti-seize to prevent this from happening again.
When re-installing, insert bolts and snug them (do not torque them). Lower the car to the ground and THEN torque the bolts.
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (c3-4me)
Out side of pulling the rear end out, Big fish ha given you the best way. If you do decide to remove the cover than buy a new heavy duty one and just replace it.
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (redwingvette)
There is an alternative to drilling that I've had sucess with. This involves using a dremel w/cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the bolt and using an impact screwdriver to back the bolt out. In any case, its going to be way easier to fix this with the rear out of the car.
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (c3-4me)
Any ideas on how this happened? :confused:
Someone overtightened the bolt and/or torqued it with the wheels off the ground. Probably age (metal fatigue) of the bolt and corrosion was also a factor.
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (zwede)
if you don't have the money to do it yourself Don't take to a shop it'll prob.
cost more. if it isn't the daily driver you can do it .. (stainless bolts) don't
forget to check the others.
carefull, if you try to use an easy-out and it snaps off, your in trouble if you need to drill it out. Those easy-out are hardened and will wear a drill out... :smash:
Re: What wrong with these pictures........ (Bob Jenkins)
Update: I took the leaf spring out last night, ( 10 leafs :confused: go figure) and the thing fell apart on me. The top 4 or so plates seperated. Don't know if this is normal. Everything else came apart easy since I let it soak in WD-40 for the past 2 days. I should be able to try the easy out tomorrow night and let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the advice!