I'm kicking my butt for taking a running vechicle out of commision. I bought the Pertronix II knowing full well the points, vac advance were brand new but did not want to buy a dwell meter and mess with points when the P-II is maintenance free. Well now I did it and it turns over but no spark.
Here's what I did.
Everything installed per instructions
1. Installed P-II in place of the points/ condensor and mic'd it between .010 -.060 between module and magnetic pick-up ring as per inst. using supplied shims.
2. Ran pos. neg wires to coil as per inst. completely eliminating and removing the ballast, tied both 12 volt feeds to the positive line to coil which had previously ran to the ballast then to pos. coil.
3. Checked the coil to 7 ohms. P-II compatible with any 6 ohm coil or above.
4. Reinstalled distributer back in exactly same position as before
5. Rechecked all connections

It states in troubleshooting to recheck your wiring and if there is a ground to the distributer recheck it, well there is and never was a ground. pos dist goes to pos coil. 12 volt supply (2) gos to pos coil. Neg. distributer goes to neg coil. That's it. Is there suppost to be a ground/ Isntructions show none, orignial points had one black wire going to neg. coil
While turning over checked 12.59 volts to pos. coil, output plug wire from coil to center dist. cap is so large my Radio shack multimeter just says OL (over load), it's a Mallory 45K hi-performance coil.

That leaves the module.

PLEASE OH PLEASE HELP ME UNFURK MYSELF

:banghead: :banghead:

 

is the rotor button on?? :lol: (saying that because i've done that..and sat for an hour trying to figure out why the car wouldn't hit) well, sounds like everything is set up right. hmmmm......

 

Rotor button. You mean the spring on the top of the rotor that contacts the ball spring in the center of the underside of the dist cap?

:confused:

 

don't know if is specifically called a "rotor button" that was just the first word to pop in my head.

 

I am just guessing but you went from points to no points so maybe........
' Reinstalled distributer back in exactly same position as before '
has something to do with it not wanting to start. I would suggest putting
distributor to #1 and make sure timing mark is TDC. Just a suggestion.
Good Luck I'm sure you will get it running sooner or later.

:seeya

 

It wouldn't surprise me if the module is DOA. I've heard of several people that have had units bad right out of the box. If you are satisfied that you have done everything according to the instructions, then it has to be the module.
There are a lot more alternatives for electronic conversion today than there were a couple of years ago, I had an original Ignitor, which worked pretty good, it failed because I accidently left the key in the start position for about 4 hours. The 12v cooked it. I replaced it with the Lobe Sensor version of the Ignitor, which worked ok, except it had an annoying habit of requiring the key in the start position for about 5 seconds before cranking.
If I had to do it again, I'd go with the Crane Cams XR-1 igniton system. It is about $20.00 cheaper than the Pertronix unit.

 

oh God! I hope not that would mean a waste of 2 days. I did want to mention that when I measured the magnetic ring I had greater than .060 between the ring and the module so using the .032 washers I shimed it to within .020. When I added the washers it cuased the ring to be a little lop sided, but FAUXRS examined it with me and the difference between max and minum clearance is less than .020 which still puts it well within the max .060 so it shouldn't matter.

Caught this on the Pertronix webpage
The ground wire inside the distributor is not connected.


Is there a internal ground wire I'm not aware of?


[Modified by Cali,68,L-79, 8:21 PM 11/29/2003]