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OK, I think every one has decided that a longer intermediate shaft (the supplied shaft in between the universals) is needed in order to decrease the angle. FYI: universal joint angles are never supposed to be greater than 20-25 degrees. The only option here is to shorten the length of the steering column shaft and lengthen the intermediate shaft. This is what I plan to do. Binding in the steering? Not for me!!!!!!!!!!!
If you still have the double universal at the top, you have problems. Think of a double universal as a floppy joint with a mind of it's own. It may work well today but with a little wear, it will bind. The real solution is to do what I think Gene did and have 2 single U-joints.
BBShark, at first blush I would agree with you on that triple universal thing, but in face upon looking at many cars in the junkyard for parts, I found Detroit doing 3 u joints plenty of times....many many cars/vechicles have that arrangement.....hell one of them actually had 4 in the system...talk about wild, that boy HAD a problem.....
I know, no pix....nore do I remember which cars.....
This is what I said in the post at the top of this page (lengthening the shaft between the to joints will fix this problem).
I should have done it to begin with. :mad
Multiple joints are fine as long as the angles are not severe. This is the reason multiple joints are used in the first place, to lessen the angles. I have seen cars that used multiple joints also but usually the joint itself will be controlled by a support bracket to maintain alignment. In the Steeroids system, the shaft is "controlled" with a swivel on the shaft and that shaft is at a severe angle (greater than 20-25 degrees). I guess what I'm saying is that in a 3 universal system, you better have very good control of the middle u-joint.
Seems it is amazingly complicated how to get a rack into some of these cars, not just our sharks.....something we never think of, so freaking simple, just a rag joint and gearbox, but change over to a rack and all of a sudden it looks more like a freaking 4wd IRS type setup....or a wing flap on an older aircraft...
It's pretty well understood how to support multiple u-joints. One support is required for a 3 joint system and the system used by Steeroids et al is well designed and perfectly serviceable. two supports would not really give any better support to the shaft and greatly complicate the assembly.
If you look at axis' of motion you can see that the rod end used to support the center shaft has noncompeting axis of freedom when compared to the u-joints involved.
If you look at axis' of motion you can see that the rod end used to support the center shaft has noncompeting axis of freedom when compared to the u-joints involved.
Have someone sit in your car and turn the wheel back and forth. Watch that bracket wiggle. :rolleyes:
Ok, hang on here. Let's just establish one very important fact. We have these kits on a large number of cars and it works just fine. It's true that some people have a bit more trouble adjusting their u-joints to where they will work properly without binding but it is possible. While re-engineering the kit may seem like an easy way to fix the problem it remains true that this design is working in hundreds of other cars.
With that said, I still think the problem can be solved. I just need more information. As I said before if you have (or can get) a photo of your upper u-joint like the one in my post then I can get an idea of where the problem is.
OK, I think every one has decided that a longer intermediate shaft (the supplied shaft in between the universals) is needed in order to decrease the angle. FYI: universal joint angles are never supposed to be greater than 20-25 degrees. The only option here is to shorten the length of the steering column shaft and lengthen the intermediate shaft. This is what I plan to do. Binding in the steering? Not for me!!!!!!!!!!!
BBshark, these u-joints can handle 30 degrees and the double u-joint can handle 60 degrees. What you don't seem to realize is that the picture is of a system that is working fine with no binding. It has been working perfectly on our test car for over 30,000 miles. How can you say that clearly this or that needs to be changed when it is working in the example provided?
Have someone sit in your car and turn the wheel back and forth. Watch that bracket wiggle.
As I said before, you are looking at the highest loaded condition for the system. Do this with the stock steering and you will see flexing as well.
78Vette;
Here is one more thing to check, if the steering rod protrudes too far into the u-joint it will limit the working angle of the u-joint and will cause binding!
Make darn sure that the shaft does not extend into the ujoint at all. In fact it should be 1/16" below flush for best operation...
Mine don't wiggle :rolleyes Course it's a custom job so I have a LOT more leeway than steeroids does.
Here's a pic. Notice the long shaft and theujoint angles.
Also notice the header position, I have lots of room.
78, NOW that I see YOUR install there...I feel you need move the lower firewall positioing of the column down and to the center of the car far as you can get...meaning, loosen the two 9/16 bolts on the 'ears' of the upper assy, near the dash area....and then the two 1/2 inch bolts through the firewall and then shift the column as I said...down and to the center....that should relax that uppermost ujoint and make life simpler....
wonder if you ever had a bent frame there??? or bad body mount somewhere???
don't understand why the original steering would have lined up then....
wonder if the lower bearing of that column output shaft is ok????
loosen everything up, and see about lateral slop in that lower bearing...
wonder if you ever had a bent frame there??? or bad body mount somewhere???
don't understand why the original steering would have lined up then....
wonder if the lower bearing of that column output shaft is ok????
loosen everything up, and see about lateral slop in that lower bearing...
GENE
The frame is straight (never hit) rust free.
Body mounts are in good shape
Lower bearing is good no play
I have tried to move the column around when I first installed this system new but have changed headers and pushed the column shaft in a 1/4 inch since then. I will try it again probably wont get a chance till Friday though
:sad:. I need to replace that top joint to so maybe I will do it at the same time.
I appreciate everyone's help :thumbs: :thumbs: .
I agree with what Gene said. Give that a try. Also, if in fact the upper u-joint was damaged due to misalignment and the tab for the support bearing is moving excessively due to the binding then be sure to check the tab and the bracket for cracks. If it has been overloaded and over flexed then it would be smart to check for cracks in the metal. If the powder coating is peeling off in the area around the support bearing tab that is an indication of too much movement.
Because you are a Steeroids customer we will give you a discount on the replacement parts. Shoot me an e-mail if you are interested. salescf@speeddirect.com
I'm not sure how you guys got your heim joint sucked in so close to the bracket?? According to Jim Shea, my column sticks out the correct distance from the firewall. If I tighted the heim joint that much, the top U wouldn't reach the column. I don't believe there is anything wrong with my frame.
Found, for all the world it looks from that pix like that Heim is right on the header....far as I"m concerned, that's not a good thing, touching of course if very bad, but considering the heat transferr concerns I have about my own install even with the headers I have....I wonder about that....I have about an inch between my new headers and the closest steering linkage being the universal on the rack....and I find no evidence like melted grease etc so far....
looks from you pix there like a longer intermediate shaft would help you too....make that heim shorter and the 'barrell' of the upper double uni more in a forward position as the shaft is longer, allowing that.....
can't see the affect on the lower joint...surely a tighter angle, but can't see to offer any opinion...
tell you all what, I think it was an absolute bitch getting that rack in there at all, let alone having to find another set of headers....if not for the headers I found....I would have either torn the damn thing out or built a custom set of headers.....
frankly I'm disappointed in most header designs....I realize there are a bunch of cars out there, but with these things having so many complaints like angle plugs, plug length, wires, steering, a/c mounts/ alt. mounts....jeez...no wonder most complaints in hotrodding seem to circle around freaking headers, from fitting to leaking.....damn junk mostly...