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I thought I had zero room to work in but after seeing yours mine looks extremely easy!!!
Gene,
I agree about the headers, more and more I am glad I built my own. They fit, I can get at the spark plugs and they are equal length as close as I can measure.
427, the guy at Schoenfeld said one thing about the 151s i'm using...he said they are NOT equal length....I demurred....he said....large controvercy out there....
dynos love equal length header, cars do not.....
man may have a point there....so with closed exhaust for street use...stock mufflers in my case....I asked if there was any differance,....he said NONE....
Gene I completely agree. there is almost zero performance difference between equal length and non qual length headers.
of course unless you run at WOT you might as well be running cast iron exhaust.
BUT there is a difference when you try to tune a car withnon equal lenth headers.
See some clyinders always run leaner than others, so as some are getting too fat some are getting better, therefore is ends up being a compromise tween too fat and too lean. This shows up as the carb not responding well to fuel / air mixture changes. and the car is never quite right.
Equal length headers don't have that problem...
besides if I'm making something it's going to be right, not almost right
427, Looks like we hijack a thread here, but since I have two nearly identical headers on each side, and the O2 sensor in in the pass side, the L98 batch injection is running at some sort of compromise....plugs look even...what can I say???
Closing down the heim toward the bracket will just make the intermediate shaft more veritical. A longer intermediate shaft would create a steeper angle for the top U.
Foundvette, the reason yours is adjusted differently is because you have a newer version of the bracket that allows for more adjustability. The support bearing tab was relocated further forward. Are you having problems with it binding?
Due to the weather and an intake change, I've only driven the car a little bit since the install, however, I have noticed some binding. It seems like the bracket is too far forward. I'll know more after more time behind the wheel.
I am going to lengthen the lower shaft and re locate the heim joint.
I don't want to offend anyone but the system is poorly designed I am not going to waste any time playing with my steering column. I am going fix it right. I don't care what anyone sez the angles are to sharp. I spent over 1,200 dollars for a poorly designed system and know I need to by a 120 dollar ujoint to fix it. :mad I would not recommend this product to anyone.
78 Vette, I wouldn't worry about offending anyone. This is a steering product that MUST work perfectly, no question. I don't think people would put up with brakes that bind, but they don't seem concerned about steering. I think it is irresponsible of people to suggest that binding is caused by previous accidents or poor installation. I'm with you, the u-joint angles are too severe.
I think this is a perfect example of what this forum is about. Trading information, experience and "know how" to others.
Well thanks for the compliment there 78, but the facts of the situatiion are that doing just ONE install on MY car, with MY ride height, and particular frame and body situation is a long way off from fielding a product selling by hundreds, and facing the irregularities of various installs....due to variations among cars...
I only share the type and shape of brackets I built, and of course thoughts on the process of why I reached the conclusions I eventually did as an interesting conversation, to ME anyway....
you know, I went through the much too long rack of the Ford Taurus, giving an absolutely way-ho too short tie rod ends, making a silly amount of bump steer...everal inches even.....and finally found out about the Grand Am rack, something I completely overlooked in the junkyards, as my mind was thinking of the C4 design....and possibility of doing a front steer conversion, which is not out of the question either, if someone wanted to do that, looking back on it, I feel something like the C4 rack is maybe a better choice yet....with a front steer conversion....but then again some guys have taken the entire C4 front freaking SUSPE$NSION and put it in a shark....seems a bit MUCH to me though....my welder buddy is across the river, so all my projects have to be easily transportable as hie TIG machine is huge, very huge...
78 Vette, I wouldn't worry about offending anyone. This is a steering product that MUST work perfectly, no question. I don't think people would put up with brakes that bind, but they don't seem concerned about steering. I think it is irresponsible of people to suggest that binding is caused by previous accidents or poor installation. I'm with you, the u-joint angles are too severe.
I think this is a perfect example of what this forum is about. Trading information, experience and "know how" to others.
I agree totally :thumbs: By the way if I have to move or modify my steering column how is it a bolt in system?