I cracked the block in my 94 GMC 1/2 ton,and found the engine below. They are by far the cheapest I have found, and it seems like a good motor. If you guys could peak at the engine and tell me if the specs seem off, or the parts they are using are junk, I would appreciate it. Just click on the link I added. Seems like the warranty is good, I just haven't heard of some of the companies they use for parts, like Elgin, or Hastings. Doesn't mean they aren't good, I just have never used them. Any hints or tips, or info in general would be great. Thanks :confused:

Sorry, forgot the link http://www.rebuilt-auto-car-engines....-350LLB-2.html




[Modified by vethead, 9:56 AM 1/10/2004]

 

You didn't post the link, but names like Hastings, Elgin, McQuade-Norris, etc have been around for a long time, making parts for the rebuilding trade without expensive advertizing. Some say they aren't as good for close tolerance race motors, but for an everyday truck they are fine. My brother who is an ASE certified mechanic uses them all the time with no failures. Joe

 

you can get basic rebuilt long blocks from GM for about $1200. they are standard configured motors, cam-heads-rotating assembly. all you need is your oil pan, valve covers, flywheel, harmonic balancer, intake, dist, water pump, sensors and acc brackets and stuff. or a trip to the junk yard for a ?? motor if money is really tight. Brian

 

I went to Chevy first, and the cheapest I could find the replacement motor I needed was $1650. All the local Chevy places were about $500-$700 more for the same motor. If you know where I canfind a replacement long block for $1200 from Chevy, let me know, that would be great. One thing I didn't read on the site where I saw the motor I found, but found out by calling the place, was that they include all the gaskets you need to finish the motor swap. I.E. intake, exhaust, water pump, etc. Everybody else said I needed to buy those seperately. Not that they are that expensive, but every buck counts.

Thanks to you guys for the replies so far. :cheers:

 

http://www.paceparts.com/store.asp

Got one myself and snuck a Summit 1103 cam in it for a little extra umph like this one:

Horsepower¹: 285 HP @ 4,600 RPM Torque¹: 355 FT/LBS @ 3,600 RPM
Redline: 5,200 RPM Comp. Ratio: 8.50:1
Heads: Cast Iron, 72 cc Valves: 1.940" I, 1.500" E
Rocker Arms: 1.5 ratio Camshaft Lift: Hydraulic; 0.420" I , 0.442" E
Crankshaft: Cast Iron Nodular, 3.480" Stroke Duration @ 0.050": 204° I, 214° E
Block: 4 Bolt Main, 2 Piece Rear Main Seal, 4.000" Bore

Not sure if it will 'bolt in' but you should be able to make it work.

[Modified by Fevre, 1:28 PM 1/10/2004]


[Modified by Fevre, 1:30 PM 1/10/2004]

 

go to the dealer in person and ask the parts guys for a remanufactured engine. they are around $1200. i suspect the prices they gave you were for a new replacement engine. some parts guys don't know anything other than punching in search info and let the computer pick the right part, most of them work for NAPA or Car Quest. i can't get to a dealer for another ten days, my job location is remote to say the least, but they should be able to get you what you want. the sight you found seems alright, but all new parts, machining, assembly and a warrenty for $1050?? sounds like something is a little fishy. i believe they are re-using parts like rods, cranks, cams and valve springs and rockers. then again maybe they are smugling parts across the border with their indentured work force.
just another thought, are your heads in good condition?? have you looked at a short block?? i don't know why or how you cracked a block, but usually the heads are still good. i think the short blocks are $950, but it has been a couple years since i priced one. best of luck with the search, Brian

 

The prices I got werfrom walking into the local dealership, and the best price was about $1650 and that was one from Sallee Chevy in Oregon. The guys within about 50 miles of me were all higher, and all of them were the remanufactured long blocks. New ones were $500-$700 more. Pace was about $70 less than Sallee, but the shipping was going to be more. The place I found only reused the rods, and crank. I am not stuck with these guys, but so far I haven't found anything that is even close. I know the price seems low, and I always research, I know cheapest doesn't mean the best necessarily. If I could find a $1200 long block from a Chevy dealership, I would probably jump on it, but they aren't even close in price.

 

I thought that the 94 engine had a roller cam and that block seems to state that it came with a flat tappet cam shaft. I could be wrong....

 

If you have the money to upgrade now is the time for a 383. Doing so in my 89 C1500. :thumbs:

 

Yes everythig sounds good. The write up sounds better than most auto parts store motors - Auto Zone, Checker, Pep Boys. The more I read the ad the more I like it. 7yr & 70K mi that covers part of labor too is hard to beat. Just that if you do have problems internet companies they can be hard to deal with. And they don't list a street address. Could be a good engine for general transportation. Just if you plan to keep the veicle for the long term - 10 yrs - go for brand new even if you have to pay with credit. :yesnod:

 

I would buy a BRAND NEW crate motor from GM I just picked one up for 1400 bucks just my opinion :cheers:

 

How much did you spend, and where did you get it?

 

Let me know where you got a new one for that price, and I will be all over it. Mine is for a 94 GMC 1/2 ton. Any chance the one you picked up so cheap was for one around the same time frame and type?

 

It's a custom build, not a kit. Here's some of what I remember:

K&N filter
Air Flow Enhancer
Turbo City TBI Power Plate
Turbo City Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
5.7L "cop" injectors
7.4L TBI
RPM intake with plenum porting for 7.4L TBI and gasket matched
Doug Thorley headers
Dynomax Ultra flow muffler
High flow cat
High Volume/Pressure fuel pump
Injector Spacer
4 wire O2 sensor
383ci (5.7 rod) custom built
9.8 to 1 compression
World Products S/R Torquer '87up 76CC heads (CC'd to 78CC's)
2.02I/1.60E valves
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller 08-501-8, 210I/218E @ .050, .488I/.495E, degreed straight up
Comp Cams valve springs
700r4 transmission from Bowtie (R.I.P. Steve Holmes)
2200 stall
MSD 6AL ignition
MSD distributor
Custom Chip if needed

How much... I don't know the total, but it isn't cheap. I guess the total comes in around 6 - 7. The key to it all is the cam. The one I'm using is as rad as you can go without running into issues with emissions because the computer doesn't play nice with high duration. Also, if you keep the intake and exhaust upgrades balanced you lessen the chance of needing a custom chip. I plan on burning my own though.

I haven't run it yet... my tranny has been delayed due to the death of Steve Holmes at Bowtie Overdrives.

 

another route that is half that price and almost as much power. 330HO motor from GM Performance, Edlebrock 3505 multi-port EFI and custom chip. the Edel set-up is $950, chip is $500, and motor is $2400. you get great performance and reliability with warrenty. i have this going in my '90 Sport right now. should have her done by Feb., just need to get home and finish it. brian

 

Look at my list. 6 - 7 grand for new parts from air breather to muffler, including tranny. It's a hell of a deal for emissions legal 400 HP / 450 ft lbs (flywheel) via TBI and a tranny.


[Modified by 63Banshee, 11:52 PM 1/11/2004]

 

just a little something to add to what cardo0 said, if you decide to buy this internet engine, take off the oil pan and intake manifold prior to installation just to check things out. there is no way i would trust an internet company i had never heard of or didn't get a personal recommendation from someone i knew. it's completely possible that it's a fine company that offers a quality product at an excellent cost. it's also completely possible it's a shady outfit that gets salvage engines from a bone yard, spray paints them and cashs your check before the trucking company rolls up with your boat anchor.