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This will probably be a tough one, but thought I'd ask anyway. I'll try to explain the problem and the sequence of events, the best I can. Maybe someone has experienced this in their '76 or one in that era. First, while driving a night I dimmed the lights and the head lights went out. I got off the road and continued to hit the dim switch and the lights came back on, but stayed on bright until finally, by hitting the dimmer switch several times they switched to lower beam. Didn't touch the dimmer the balance of that night.
After this event, I had the dash paritially apart to replace instrument panel lights and radio speaker, and check vacuum lines. When I turned on the headlights after this fixit job(?), the dash lights for the speedometer didn't lightand the horn and left marker light didn't work either. The lights on the right side of the dash, the tack, stayed on. Next event, The left side of the dash lights and the marker light came back one, but the horn doesn't work.
This sequence has happened again, therefore, I don't use my brights.
Any wiring guru out there who can reduce my schematic reading and tracing time? Also, when I drop the steering wheel by removing the two bolts and unscrewing the instrument panel screws the panel doesn't drop down enough to really be able to see behind it and trace wires, any suggestion on how to get more room to work?
Thanks for reading this long drawn out request. I recently found this forum and feel like a kid in a candy store. Guess that dates me! I'm the original owner of this car and have had to sort through the problems myself. What fun to be able to ask others opinions and advise.
I had the lights go out on my 78 while driving and using the dimmer switch. My problem was the switch itself. Which I replaced, the 78 dimmer switch was on top of the sterring column, under the dash between the carrier plate. I lowered it by removing the two dash screws then removing the two carrier bolts just under the dash, then loosen the two collar bolts on the fire wall. This allowed the column to be pulled down about 4 inches. :cheers:
Could be a short, could be a broken wire. Either will stop power from getting to where you want but usually a short will blow a fuse. A broken wire can have the conductor inside broken but the outside insulation might look ok - this can make broken wires difficult to track down.
To trace an intermittent broken wire just turn on the lights that should be on and start wiggling wires. Hopefully you will see the lights flickering as you bend wires. Eventually you will be able to pin point the break by bending a single wire in the same place over and over and see the lights repeatably go on and off.
To find a completely broken wire there isn't much to do except go through the schematics and hunt for voltages with your voltmeter. Good Luck!
Oh and you might also want to rule out loose electrical connectors, bad switches, improperly seated light bulbs, etc...
Making a little progress. Couldn't believe it was dimmer switch as I had replaced that 10 or 15 years ago lol, but that seems to be the problem with the headlights going out. Also got my horn working, but in retrospect, don't think it was part of the problem. My other problem is that the seat belt light will not go out. Haven't received short tester that I ordered as yet.
It sounds like the switch in the seat belt buckle,if you look at the fixed buckle at the console,you will see two wires coming out.When you buckle up the belt you are open circuiting the groung wire going to the light.Could be damaged or not opening when you latch the belt.Try disconnecting the two wire to see if the light goes out.