I can't get the search function to work so....could some one point me to a procedure for R & R'ing my door bushings? Thanks :smash:

 

Pretty straight forward.
I had my doors off the car when I did it which make things easy.
Purchased new door springs, and a pin and bushing kit from Paragon I do believe. Removed old door springs
Punched out the old pins and brass bushings.
Tapped in new brass bushings.
Put a little white grease on the new pins and tapped back in.
Done.
Nice and tight now with no sag.

 

Thanks, it looks easy enough. I was just wondering if there was any tricks or "watch out for" deals. I'll get them installed this Saturday. Thanks again

 

I did this procedure similarly to the way James described it. Use spray paint to mark the location of the hinges before you remove the doors. Although the doors will hang differently with the new bushings, this will get you in the right ballpark.

 

I removed the doors but left the hinges in place. Upper pin had no room to be removed. Cut off the head with the ol Dremel tool and went down to remove.
Installed the new pin from below and secured the upper end with a small cotter key...small hole had been drilled through the pin prior to install.
Hope this helps.

 

You can get the upper pin out without cutting the head off, but it takes an
extra "hand". I would set up a floor jack with a big fluffy towel or foam to
protect the bottom of the door. get the jack in place and slightly support the
bottom of the door.

Push the bottom pin out first - but then leave it through the top holes so that
the door doesn't fall over. Next, push the top pin up until it's out of the
bottom holes. It's nice to have a human helper now, but you can do it if you're
careful. Take the bottom pin out now - and tilt the back of the door upward
and inward. The top pin will now have clearance to make it past the skin.

Of course, you could remove the door, but then you need to contend with
two pains in the butt:

1 - re-align the door. I don't care how well you mark it before taking it off,
you will be guaranteed to need some tweeks to get the alignment back right.

2 - Those hinge bolts can break easily. I snapped two off when removing my
75 doors. Unfortunately, they were the ones that hold the hinge in the door.
With the stub of a bolt left, the hinge would not come out of the door without
serious fiberglass damage.

Good luck. However you do it, try to keep the hinges bolted in place.
:seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 10:38 AM 1/30/2004]

 

Bingo! We have a winner. sounds like the way to go NHvette. When I did my motor last summer I bought a transmission jack, I think it will work great for the door support tomorrow. Thanks to everyone. Hopefully when I close my door Monday morning the window will no longer hit the door frame! My doors are hanging bad. Thanks again.

 

did mine myself on the car. grind one side of the pin off and it will slide by the fender. keep jack under door. found a post about it somewhere on the net. i'll see if i can find it again. wait a minute... here it is
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/doorsag.html

:thumbs:

 

I did similar to NHVETTE but ground off one side of the top pin to clear the fender. We also made up a "VEE channel" out of wood. The VEE sat on the jack and had carpet in it for the door to sit on. One person kept a hand on the door at all times to steady it, the wieght was held by the jack.

 

Well I got the drivers side done. Did it without any help, I was going to use my wife but she was unavailable. Here is how I did it.
1. Supported the door with a jack and an old blanket. I also taped a rag to the doors leading edge to protect the paint.
2. I tapped the bottom pin out of the lower hole, then did the same to the top.
3. Ground one side of the upper pins head flat.
4. At this point I could not get the upper pin out, it hit the door skin. I don't care how you move the door, or what you do with the lower pin. On my car the only way to get the upper pin to clear the door skin was to take the upper hinge access panel off (forward upper leading edge of door, 2 screws). Once this little panel was off I could see the 4 bolts for the upper hinge. I sprayed a little paint on the bolts, waited 15 min and removed all 4 bolts. At this point the door needs to be hand held full time.
With the upper hinge bolts removed I was able to easily remove all bushings and both pins. NOTE: The upper pin will not come out if you haven't ground one side of the head flat.
5. Installed new bushings and pins.
6. Installed 4 upper hinge bolts. I tightened them down as if it was final installation, even though I knew I may have to loosen them to adjust the door later.
7. Closed the door slowly, I have pin stripping and the stripes appeared to line up nice. So I closed the door. It lined up nice and opened up nice.
8. Replaced the upper hinge pin access panel.
That's it, it was a 8 step program. The door works great! Took me about 2 hours. The passenger door will go smoother I'm sure.
Thank you to everybody the replied to my post. augie