I am looking to change my HR to a solid roller and was wondering what the pros/cons are for these two types of locking bars.

The horizontal "pop-up" bars are less expensive and allow cam changes without manifold removal, but I have heard that the vertical locking bars are better.

I was considering Comp's 818-16 lifters as they aren't too pricey $265 (vertical).
The Crane lifters (horizontal) are $225

Thanks :cheers:

 

I have no idea, but I will TTT it for you.

 

I don't think that this is a true statement quote:The horizontal "pop-up" bars are less expensive and allow cam changes without manifold removal, but I have heard that the vertical locking bars are better.
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It's the design of the head casting that determines whether you can change the lifter with the manifold on...... None of my heads were designed to do it.:( The only heads I know of that allow lifter changes without head removal are all out racing 12 and 18 degree models that are nothing like standard 23 degree heads.

The other thing is cost. I'm a firm believer that you get what you pay for.

When I had my roller wheel bearings go out and it started bouncing on my billet steel custom cam. It was not just a $225 roller lifter replacement. It turned into a $2000 dollar job. It hosed the cam, the valve springs were shot. So I went ahead with a quicky rebuild - rings bearings..........

My 383 now has the Crane pro verticle which I got at cost + shipping. They have been running for about a year now. For my new 427 I installed the new Crane Pro horizontal they were about $550.

Crane has an excellant warranty program. I trashed a set of rollers and they gave me the Crane pros at cost for sending mine back. So delivered to my door they were about $370.

My latest springs are @180# closed and 540# open at .620 lift

 

George it was cam changes he was talking about, not sure if you missed that ;) . I too heard that it was possible to change the cam with intake in place, but I have no 1st hand experience with it so I can't say if it's true.

I've also heard that the vertical bars have a chance of falling/ breaking off & that you have to watch that the vertical bar doesn't come into contact with the block through it's motion.

For those reasons, I chose to go with horizontal rollers.

Have you chosen your cam yet ? I filled out & submitted Comp's cam recommendation card and they came back with a roller that was very close to what I came up with on my DD2000 which I thought was pretty cool :)

 

SmokedTires - I just didn't explain it well enough. You would have to lift all the sets of lifters away from the lifter holes to slide the cam in and out. Only race heads actually have the room to remove the lifters completely. With out room I wouldn't try it because with my luck one would get half cocked in the bore and you'ld end up doing a tear down anyway.

 

actually, it is possible. Those lifters have a spring loaded bar and when you back off the rocker the lifter pops up and you can pull out the cam, then stick in a new one and adjust the rockers.

 

SmokedTires I am thinking of replacing my current hydraulic roller with a solid part. I have been digging around comp's website for the cam recommendation form but can't find it. Do you have a link?
I am looking to go with the XR280R.

gkull Thanks again for your input, its always helpful and appreciated.

:cheers:

 

Comp Cams has their Extreme Energy series solid rollers. I have run both horizontal and vertical bars and none will last longer than 3-10K miles on a street motor. The process of idling kills rollers! The Comps have oil grooves machined into them and the very latest models have gone back to a pressure feed on the axel rollers but! in NASCAR Busch and Craftsman Truck series where these followers are legal they will not survive more than about 350 racing miles despite lots of money and research spent on increasing their longevity by all the major manufacturuers. Even the really exotic stuff like the Jessel lifters are having a hard time living in Busch and Craftsman Truck, Shubeck Lifters in Las Vegas has a new "axel-less" ceramic roller follower that may be a decent long term piece but, they are too new to determine that and require expensive block machining to install. I would buy a set of horizontal locking bar lifters at Doug Herbert or Competition Products for aaround the $175 they get and feed my motor a new set every 5,000 miles if you want to run solid rollers on the street. My opinion! lots of expirience!

 

Solid LT1 - What are your max rpm, lift, duration, and spring & oil pressures that you ware the roller out so fast?

When mine went out at near 20,000 miles I put the blame on me. I was running at Thunder Hill road racing track and I was into my 7500 rpm rev limiter in a couple places on the 3.8 mile track and I had 240 degree water temp.

 

Travis check here

I've been following your enquires over in the engine mod section ;)
:cheers: