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It boggles my mind, but it looks like it came this way - the front wires on both sides are routed through the motor mounts. The shielding and clips all line up so it works, but it's a real pain to get the new wires through there.
On a related note, do you think it would be all right to leave all that ignition shielding off the intake manifold? I kinda prefer it all open, and it's a pain to remove it all when you need to adjust stuff.
Some mechanics prefer to use the wires that come with the boots not yet attached. Makes it easier to thread 'em thru the motor mounts. But remember, while C3 wires may be a pain in the derriere, C4 wires (and plugs) are the ultimate impossibility!!!
CVT: Jeff has more plans for his car than you can imagine. Kinda like Texas weather. If you don't like his current plan, just wait a day!
:jester
I thought you were going into dry dock! Does this mean that you will have the slug out on Tuesday?
My '80 was the same way with the motor mount routing. It do suck.
As page so politely pointed out, I had adopted a new strategy of "fix it as I go." However, lying on my back underneath the car last night, looking at the filth and coatings of various fluids, I think I may at least pull the engine and tranny and rebuild both. Then, I'll go back to the "fix what's broke" plan.
And I may go ahead and bring the Slug out on tuesday.
I ran into this...and after trying to get the motor to release from the mounts for an hour, I realized that you can usually slide the boot off of the wire. I did this and in (10) minutes had the wires through the mounts. I replaced all of my shielding for orginality..........The real bite was putting the wire looms back in place above the motor mount. you have to get the bolt through the loom and the sheild bracket and then keep it striaght while tightening.
This worked for me with a set of new stock ignition wires on my 1980.
Get some silicone "grease" and lubricate the boot that goes to the DISTRIBUTOR cap.
DO SPARK PLUG WIRE TO #1 BEFORE YOU DO SPARK PLUG WIRE TO #3.(Likewise do #2 BEFORE #4)
PUSH the DISTRIBUTOR CAP BOOT of the spark plug wire DOWN through the motor mount (as opposed to trying to push the spark plug boot UP through the motor mount).
Do the #1 wire first then move the wire FORWARD in the mount so that you can next do the #3 wire. There is NOT enough room within the motor mount to re-arrange the wires and it looks cleaner if the wires don't cross.
This worked for me with a set of new stock ignition wires on my 1980.
Get some silicone "grease" and lubricate the boot that goes to the DISTRIBUTOR cap.
DO SPARK PLUG WIRE TO #1 BEFORE YOU DO SPARK PLUG WIRE TO #3.(Likewise do #2 BEFORE #4)
PUSH the DISTRIBUTOR CAP BOOT of the spark plug wire DOWN through the motor mount (as opposed to trying to push the spark plug boot UP through the motor mount).
Do the #1 wire first then move the wire FORWARD in the mount so that you can next do the #3 wire. There is NOT enough room within the motor mount to re-arrange the wires and it looks cleaner if the wires don't cross.
Worked for me. Hope this helps.
[Modified by mapman, 9:45 AM 2/20/2004]
Thanks for the tip. I've got the driver's side done, just as you described. I didn't have to use any grease, as my motor mounts are well lubricated due to the oil leaking from my valve covers. I haven't done the passenger side yet, as it was late last night by the time I got done with the other side.
I am replacing my leads this weekend and looked at how to route the new wires. I have decided to just route the wires along the valve covers using the wire seperators and that attach to the valve covers. I think this looks very neat and much better than the original setup. I think Cali,68,L-79 has a simliar setup and it is shown well on his engine detailing thread. :cheers: