There was an earlier thread concerning home made pressure bleeders. First and foremost, a pressure bleeder only requires 10 to 13 pounds of air pressure – don’t blow yourself up!...

Sometimes, pictures are worth a thousand words. In an effort to help, these are pictures of a factory made bleeder.

This picture should help with:



gasket use = this unit used a 3/16” thick piece of rubber cut only enough to let “nipples” to pass through

How to avoid overfill – the “nipples” use the space that would be used by excess fluid. Quick release of the lid is recommended (after shutting off pressure at the valve directly on top of the lid). I connected this set up to the master cylinder with a pair of “C” clamp type vise grips. The forward nipple is plugged – it’s sole purpose is to help set the master cylinder fluid level.

On a homemade lid – I would probably tack weld two large nuts on the underside of an extra master cylinder lid that had a collar welded onto it to receive the quick connect to the pressure tank itself.

The next pic should help with the basic design.



It’s a simple two piece “can”. The top and bottom are separated by a bladder (3/16”) and bolted together in a tight pattern. The bottom has a fitting that allows for an air fill (like a valve stem) and a pressure relieve valve. The top has a “T” fitting that connects the tank to the master cylinder lid as well as allows you to access the bladder - the bladder must be pushed down with a wooden dowel to allow room for brake fluid.

Brake fluid on top, air pressure on bottom - 10 to 13 pounds….Pretty simple concept, really...

Hope this helps someone... please feel free to chime in on anything I missed...

:cheers:

 

fantastical :thumbs:

 

Hey Corz...how's the dash commin?...

 

I made one that looks just like this and it works beautifully. You just have to check the fluid level every now and then while you're bleeding.

 

Instead of using that can and all the stuff in the homemade on at the top of the thread, why couldn't I just use one of these:

And just regulate the pressure with my air compressor's pressure valve? Is this a bad idea?

 

The pressure bleeders design keeps you from running out of fluid as well as eliminating the chance of introducing air into your system as could happen with your proposed method..

I think I paid about $200 for my bleeder...well worth it IMHO..

 

I use a pressure bleeder like the one Steve is showing. I set the shop air pressure regulator at 10 psi, fill the master, install the cover then connect the regulated shop air. I bleed one back and one front, refill and so the other 2 wheels. I have more then enough fluid for one bleeding per end , never had a problem mixing air with the brake fluid.

 

I made one of these, too. I tell you what--this one tip more than made up for the cost of a year's subscription in my mind. It works like a freakin' charm. Just make sure to get the giant "C" clamp cinched down enough to get a good seal or you'll spray brake fluid everywhere, even with only 6-10 pounds of regulated air.

 

I think the easiest thing to do is drill one small hole per side in the top, and with it installed and the cylinders full of fluid....use the air jet with holes in the side to pressureize the top of the rubber expansion gasket....a bit at a time...this forces fluid through the system....a bit at a time....certainly primes it well....use my old faithful RTV for sealing it up again....

GENE