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I am trying to remove the 3 bolts that hold the front caliper brackets and dust shield to the upright. But they are SOLID. Tried 1/2" impact wrench, breaker bar, heat, 1 hr of liquid wrench... nothing. :smash: :smash:
What is the typical PITA factor for these?? Ideas?
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Re: Notorious bolts (Turbo-Jet)
I had the same problem. Finally gave up. figured that if they've been together for 30years+ and wouldn't separate, God wanted it that way. :lol: Only pieces I couldn't get apart on the front end, and I'm a little persistant. :D
The caliper is held on by a bracket that has 2 through bolts that also hold on the steering arm plus one very large bolt in the top of the spindle. The through bolts can be replaced if you break them. Remember there is a nut on each one. The large bolt in the spindle doesn't have a nut, I would use heat on all bolts but not from a propane torch. You need a good oxy/acetalyne? for quick heat. Douse with water while hot also helps or loosen them hot. An impact doesn't have the torque for a stuck bolt. Then again a 3/4 inch drive impact has alot of torque.
IR = Ingersoll Rand, 1000lbs.ft impact wrench. Most likely a thundergun :)
As for the upper bolts, you guys DO realize that the dust shield has little tabs on it that bend up to prevent the large nut from coming loose? I didn't have probs with my bolts at all, the 2 through bolts have pinched nuts (self locking) and the upper one came out with a good blow of the impact wrench.
Never heard of 1000ft/lbs from a 1/2 inch gun? I jump to a 3/4 inch impact gun if I need it but find a 3 foot breaker bar does more.
As for the upper bolt I install everything with anti seize so it is never a problem.
On of the most used tools in my shop is the wire wheel on a grinder. I polish all threads before installing. I also use copper anti seize generously.
I do the same thing, of all the things I have the largest collection is most likely wire wheels and wire bristles. I also always clean up the thread and coat with copper paste.
I do the same thing, of all the things I have the largest collection is most likely wire wheels and wire bristles. I also always clean up the thread and coat with copper paste.
I do the same thing, of all the things I have the largest collection is most likely wire wheels and wire bristles. I also always clean up the thread and coat with copper paste.
Why the copper paste? :confused:
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Keeps the moisture and road grime out, no rusting bolts, easier to remove.
As for the upper bolts, you guys DO realize that the dust shield has little tabs on it that bend up to prevent the large nut from coming loose?
Yep, don't forget the tabs. I removed mine with ease several months ago and they had clearly never been removed (circa '72). Tools used were a 1/2" drive 6-point socket and 18" breaker bar.
I just popped both my front spindle/knuckle/caliper brackets apart last weekend.
What a (female dog) that was. The BIG bolts at the top come out fairly easily,
since they are tapped into a pocket - and not much rust forms in there.
If you don't have the tabs bent back, you can't even get the wrench on.
MY IR231 (500 ft-lbs) took those out no problem. The through-bolts are what
stopped me cold. Two came loose with the air wrench. The third came loose
after putting a 2 1/2 foot pipe on my ratchet. The last one needed lots of heat
then oil. Then I managed to break a 1/2" drive 3/4" 6point socket in half.
More heat more heat more oil more heat .... new socket ... finally loosened
up.
When I was doing some rear end work on mine, I tried my buddy's 1/2 " air impact to no avail. finally pulled out my electric 1/2' impact and after about 15 seconds of rattlings, they broke free.. I like the electric because the torque is a constant and you dont have to worrk about pressure drop off.