What kind is prefered, where to obtain, where to install, and so forth.

Thanks

 

I bought a Cole-Hersey from a big truck supply. Got a big cushion clamp and clamped it inside the battery box to the panel between it and the seat. Used a short cable to the negative post on the battery and a short solenoid-to-terminal type cable from there to the frame. You have to reach in to turn it off, but it works well for storage. Not any other good places to put it that are not visible.

 

Here's the kind I'm using:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...X&appId=386181

Simple but effective. :cheers:

 

:iagree: I recently purchased the **** type from Mid America and it's a P.O.S. I installed it, and even when fully and well tightened "on", it makes poor contact and the two halves of the piece feel loose. The first few days the car would almost turn over once, then die. I'd have to get out and wiggle the damned cable while turning the ignition key to make contact and get it to start. Then my voltmeter needle would jump all over the place. Now, when I want to loosen the **** to cut the juice, it keeps making intermittent contact until the **** comes fully off. So much for the idea of turning it a bit to cut power then tightening it to fully restore. Basically no matter how loose or tight, the **** creates intermittent contact all the way from just barely threaded to painfully tightened. You have to remove the **** and pull away the cable to kill the juice, and for me to put it back together and fully tighten it with the two halves being totally loose I have to unclamp the battery from the holder tilt it then place the **** in and tighten it down. Then the two halves fit snug, well until I lock the battery back down, then it's a bit loose again. :banghead:

I thought I was buying a quick turn of a **** solution to my battery drainage problem, but this thing is just as much work as and more annoyance than just unclamping the battery and removing the positive cable completely like I used to do when storing for the week. A big waste of $18.00. The cost I paid to ship it to me, plus the cost I'd have to pay to return it would be as much as the price of the part if not more, so it's not worth returning.

I'm going to purchase that cutoff from J.C. Whitney pictured in the link. Just pisses me off that for what I paid now I could have had that instead. Live and learn, right?

I like Mid America. Their customer service was good, but my first buy impression as far as the quality of the part is VERY disappointing.

 

Wirth product from JC Whitney.

 

:iagree: :iagree: :iagree: Wasted money for both my cars :iagree: :iagree: :iagree:

 

I have used Flaming River switches with good success in all my street and race cars. I used the HD model w/key on the Corvette - need to rearrange the rear compartments a little.

http://www.flamingriver.com/switches.htm

Phil

 

I have this one also. I bought it at Advance Auto

 

I have the JC Whitney one as well...

 

Paul
Where did you buy that?
Is there a Canadian source?
Thanks,

 

Call JC Whitney on their Canadian line. They ship from Windsor and you avoid brokerage fees.

 

have you ever had the switch vibrate to the open position? I guess the lever is held pretty tight? :auto:

 

I made my own. It is located in the center storage compartment and is much easier to reach than a switch in the battery compartment. It also has over amp protection and will trip in the case of an extreme short.

 

I use the **** type switch. Have had it for three years and no problems. If you don't thread the **** correctly, ie cross thread it, then the connections between the two pieces is not good. There is an insulator between the two pieces. The **** threads make contact with the bottom piece and the bottom of the **** makes contact with the top piece.
I have it mounted on top of the battery so it is easy to access. If you want I can email you a picture of my installation.

I also use a 3 amp bypass around the switch to keep the clock and radio's clock running.

I got it from Echker's, but most Corvette part vendors sell it.
Roger


[Modified by RMS73, 10:25 PM 3/2/2004]

 

I'm glad to hear yours has offered you years of trouble free service. Mine so far has been a pain. when playing with it before installation I was able to observe how it is intended to work, but after applied it has not worked smoothly as I described above. Perhaps since you have a top post it makes threading it properly a far more simple matter. I have a side post. No matter how well you line up the two individual halves that come together and attempt to line up the threaded shaft of the **** into the hole so it will thread properly when screwed down, it appears it will not align correctly so when the **** feel fully tightened after several full turns, the two halves it holds together will not fit snugly as they did before installation. After five to ten frustrating tries, you must unclamp the whole battery, pull out the clamp, and tilt the battery up or onto it's side in order to again hold the two halves correctly in place and finally screw that **** into place CORRECTLY so it holds the two halves snugly like intended. Then you have to clamp the battery back down into place, and I've noticed afterwards that the two haves again become somewhat loose after the repositioning.

Now, when I decide to unscrew the **** to supposedly cut the juice, or remove it for theft protection, I will have to go through that entire process again. F that my friend. What's the point then. Yours probably works better because you have a top post battery, cables and the cutoff device designed for that set up. I have the stock side post arrangement still in place. To have one that works as good as you claim yours does I'd have to convert to top post, and of course if I'm going to go that far I'd keep with my plan to use the best possible replacement components meaning I'd use custom made high quality cables as opposed to the ones sold in most of the catalogs costing me a couple hundred bucks, and I'd still have to buy another battery cutoff **** device to work with the top post. Seems to make more sense to just buy the other lever type shown above from J.C. Whitney or Advance. Sorry, but again, mine is a P.I.T.A. P.O.S. :cuss

 

About 12 years ago I bought a switch from LGB Industries..... It's still available and is called The Savety Switch. Apparently similar to the JC Whitney one and available as a side post or top post version, can be fitted in many different configurations and is easy to use. So much so that I disconnect the battery event at day long shows etc.... Certainly helped battery life!

It was only about $12 and was shipped over to me here in the UK for next to nothing! A great little company to deal with! They're at (877) 639 1691. PO Box 99 Gary Il. 60013

 

The lever is very tight. Does not move.

 

thats what i want to do...
how EXACTLY do i do this? pix???

 

Actually I have a side post Delco battery. I made a "bracket" from a small copper buss bar to allow the top mounting of the cut-off switch.
If I figure out how to post a picture of my setup I'll "show it off".
Roger

 

I found the same throw switch at Autozone for around $20. Its worked great for me and its easy to access. If I were to do something that caused it to lose contact, I've probably got worse problems to deal with.

Prior to that, I bought a DieHard from Sears that you could disable via remote control (I'm a sucker for gadgets) which permanently disabled itself after 2 or 3 months and Sears gave me my money back. It was definitely a needless remote.