Differential oil seals
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
From: Marion Ia
Differential oil seals
I have the differential out of the car and figured I might as well replace the seals. my haynes has instruction for when it is in the car. Calls for getting a torque reading before removing the pinion nut. I do not have much resistance at all, does anyone have a better way to do this? Would also like to repace the yoke seals. This falls under the while I am at it, I am replacing the bushing on the traling arms and struts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 16
From: Gainesville, Florida
Re: Differential oil seals (Petes73)
The reading you're getting is the clutch pack resistance/slip not the pinion nut torque. You need to lock the ring gear/carrier before you can get a torque reading on the pinion nut or actually remove it. You'll need to take the cover off & brace the carrier or ring gear against the housing with something to prevent it from turning when applying torque to the pinion nut. I mounted the housing in a vice then inserted a properly sized piece of wood between the opening in the carrier and the housing. That nut is a pain to remove without a long breaker bar or extension. Good luck!
Mark
Mark
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Differential oil seals (Petes73)
The nut is what is applying the bearing preload to the pinion bearings. Once you move it you will lose that pre-load so marking it and replacingit in the same position should be very close. Doing this in the car I would except this but since you have the differential out I would open it up and really check things out. Side yoke play,carrier for cracks,drain and replace the oil w/additive, cleaning and painting. Check the GM oeverhaul manual and you'll find a torque setting for used bearing preload, it's about 5-6 in/lbs of drag. You can check this ratign before you removethe pinion nut to see where it's at now. You need a dial in/lb wrench to properly do this job. If it were me I'd go through it now while it's out of the car.
gary
gary
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 246
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From: Marshalltown Iowa
Re: Differential oil seals (gtr1999)
[QUOTE] You can check this ratign before you removethe pinion nut to see where it's at now. You need a dial in/lb wrench to properly do this job. /QUOTE]
:iagree:
You do need to check this setting and restore it back to where it was. Too tight will take out your pinion bearings. If you are reusing your old bearings do not set them up to the new bearing preload that you find in most of the books. As stated above, use the correct tools as it will save you money in the long run by reducing the chances of ruining something from an improper setup.
:iagree:
You do need to check this setting and restore it back to where it was. Too tight will take out your pinion bearings. If you are reusing your old bearings do not set them up to the new bearing preload that you find in most of the books. As stated above, use the correct tools as it will save you money in the long run by reducing the chances of ruining something from an improper setup.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
From: Marion Ia
Re: Differential oil seals (Eric R)
Thanks after reading the manual that is what I thought. It says you can do the spring scale and rope trick if you do not have the correct torque wrench. This is how I set preload when I did printing press assembly. I checked the end play on the yokes and it was less than .040 of an inch. This seems to be OK by the specs I have been reading in the forum. I think I will replace the yoke seals now so I do not have to pull the differentaill again.
I want to thank everyone again for their input
I want to thank everyone again for their input
