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I just got my car running again and I was checking the valve adjustment because of some excess noise. Well I noticed that the #5 exhaust valve was not opening as much as the #3 exhaust valve. It was easy to see when the car was running as they are right next to each other. From what I understand this has not been an uncommon problem with comp cams. I followed their insturctions step by step and used only their parts. I broke the cam in exactally how they said too. I am not happy about this as the car has only got 20miles on it sense the cam was installed. I bought the cam through Summit, so I will be calling them and also Comp Cams to find out what will be done. I hope nobody else has a problem like this. I took a chance on their cam and it bit me. I don't think I will be using there cams again. I don't know who is left to turn too.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: Comp Cams XE 262, PROBLEM. (IRON WILL)
:( Sorry to hear of your camshaft failure IRON W. Comp does use a very high intensity ramp on thier lobes. High intensity means lift on vlv opening ramp increases very fast between opening (0.006") and 0.050". This provides more vlv opening/flow area for same duration but can be cause for lobe/lifter wear. I have read a lot of wiped lobes lately with Comp camshafts. BTW Crane uses a lower intensity/slower opening rate.
Next guess is rocker ratio or spring pressure is just too high during break-in. An old trick would be to change to lower ratio rocker and weaker vlv springs just to break the cam in. I read cam manufactures offer cam harding for longer cam life too. :grouphug:
I have recently had the opportunity to deal with comp Cams on a service issue, and they were super. I talked to a guy named Keith, he was helpful, and timely in responding. Give them a chance to help before you write them off.
It usually takes a few thousand miles for the wear to show up. If you only have 20 miles on the engine it may be something else. A cam goes bad when the surface is ruined and the lifter fails to turn. The lifter then wears the cam lobe down. Usually you notice it after a few thousand miles. Usually before 5k though.
My XE-262 also wiped a lobe. Switched to an XE274 and it wiped and destroyed the lifter in less than 100 miles. :mad
The machine shop estimate is $1000 to strip down, clean, reassemble the short block plus replace the oil pump, bearings, and all the contaminated parts. I had big chunks of metal in my oil pan.
Next cam is going to be a Crane hyd roller. I am done with flat tappets.
We cleaned a lobe off the #7 on an XE284H. Did a lot of research and came up with this. The current oils in production don't have a large Zinc content which is needed for break in purposes. GM sells a break in lube addative, Not sure of he part number off hand, but it has a large zinc content and is specifically used for motor break in, more specifically cam break in. Don't know if it helped but that second cam is still going strong.
I wiped out three cams in the first engine I ever put together. I think lack of cleansing the block enough was the problem. I took out 1 Comp Cam and two Ultradynes in that motor. Sold it to some guy in highschool never to see it again after the third cam.
If you want the part number to that addative drop me and email and I'll see if I can find it. But you should be able to go into the dealer and they should be able to look it up.
Swapping cams sucks, make sure all your lifters spin before you button it up and also prelube the engine and make sure all the rockers are getting good oil up top before firing it up.
To follow up on this thred, GM EOS additive for engine break-in seems to be a popular routine on this board:http://www.hotrodders.com/t23930.html
Something with zinc or equivalent anti-scuff properties appears to eliminate lobe wipe out.
Well I took the cam and lifters out. Number 5 exhaust lifter is shot. The cam is rounded right off to where there is no lift at all, lifter is also rounded, kind of like a half circle is taken out of it. Some small chips are missing out of the liter as well. I will be sending it back to Comp Cams, I doubt I will get any where. All the rest of the lifters look fine as well as the cam lobes. I had a chat with a Lunati Rep. today. I think I will be using there products next. Maybe I will eventually find a cam that will work in this car. I hope no one else has to deal with this issue with there car using this cam.
Well I am sending the cam back, I should know by the middle of next week what they have determined. This should be interesting. It doesn't matter at this point I already ordered a new cam from a different manufacturer. Hopefully I'll have better luck this time around.
Go to your local NAPA auto parts store and buy Valvoline racing oil (it will say for off highway use only on the can.) Valvoline recognized the problem with the additives and has released a line of oils for flat tappet camshafts, there is a problem with catalytic convertors plugging with the zinc oil additives so the newer oils have them removed. Zinc is the best anti-wear additive for flat tappets and high zinc oils should be run with aggressive flat tappet cams.
We cleaned a lobe off the #7 on an XE284H. Did a lot of research and came up with this. The current oils in production don't have a large Zinc content which is needed for break in purposes. GM sells a break in lube addative, Not sure of he part number off hand, but it has a large zinc content and is specifically used for motor break in, more specifically cam break in. Don't know if it helped but that second cam is still going strong.
I don't know if this is the same stuff but years ago I stocked up on the GM Engine Oil Supplement 1#1052367 for all my engine assembly and cam work. I'm not saying this is a cure-all, but I never lost a cam - knock on wood.