Since I have owned this 75 vert. I hear a ticking sound at my right knee in the tunnel, when I accelerate. Underneath I see an area on the aluminium tunnel sheild, where the drive shaft balance weight is hitting it. Must be the trany mount.( but it looks new ). When I replace it should I loosen the engine mounts before I tighten up the new trany mount? Its a L48 with th400, the trany mount is on the cross member no bracket is used. :confused:
Check your driver side motor mount, they are the ones that usually tear. Also look inside your fan shroud to see if the fans has been hitting it.
my motor mount on driver side is busted as well. the motor lifts enough so the fan hits the shroud :eek:
doing it soon. good luck with yours :cheers:
doing it soon. good luck with yours :cheers:
My motor mount on driver side busted as well. If you change one than change all of them. Just make since to me.
I took the cheap way out, I only replaced the driver side with a poly one, saved me at least $15. :)
I have noticed that there is several styles, interlocking, non interlocking, What should I use and how do you do the job? Is it very difficult. :cheers:
Interlocking is better, it doesn't allow the eng to flop over as far, poly will last longer and is stronger than the rubber ones. Like I said i used just one poly mount because it is stronger and thought still having one rubber one would help absorb vibration. Still have the rubber trans mount. If you have a cherry picker just pick up the eng enough to allow the bolts to slide out from the motot mounts. IF you not you can jack it up from below, some people just jack on the pan but I prefer to use a peice of 2x4 to jack at the pain rails, no chance of the pan denting, do one side at a time with this method.
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When I replace it should I loosen the engine mounts before I tighten up the new trany mount?
You shouldn't have to - should be able to slide right in and bolt up.When I replace it should I loosen the engine mounts before I tighten up the new trany mount?
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