Motor work, 1974
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Boca Raton Fl
Motor work, 1974
Greetings to All, First time user on this site, looking for information on 74 L48 Automatic 195 HP. Picking up car this Saturday, (first Corvette ever) the motor needs to be rebuilt. I would like to get somewhere around 300 H P after the rebuild. Any suggestions as to what this 350 will require to get that H P ? Also, can the original heads support that H P or should I egt different heads ?, if so, what will work well ? And of course, where can I get them ? Any information would be greatly appreciated. I have worked on Big Healey's and TR7's & 8's all my life, now I am into the Vette's, Lottttsss to learn. I would like suggestions on pistons, flat top, domed ?? whatever. This project should take a couple years so i'm in no big hurry. Any advice on cams would also be greatly appreciated. Once completed, I plan to drive it daily in the HOT Florida weather.
Thanks
Boca Bob
Thanks
Boca Bob
Pro
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 560
Likes: 1
From: Mooresville NC
Re: Motor work, 1974 (RDOldcars)
There are alot of threads here new and old referring to your topic. Generally, how fast you want to go is directly related to how much money you want to spend.
Good luck finding your right combination of parts. :cheers:
Good luck finding your right combination of parts. :cheers:
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Re: Motor work, 1974 (RDOldcars)
Money, Money , Money.....
Before you do anything get on http://www.amazon.com and look up two books. First one is "How to build a chevy small block for the street" and the other one is by Guilstrand on Small Blcoks. Together you will get both for less then $30. Peanuts considering what you are about to spend.
If you are not worried about originality then go with a crate motor. I just rebuilt my motor and it is cheaper (and faster) to put in a crate motor.
If you are chasing horsepower then you have to know your limits. I really don't think you will get 300HP out of that motor with those heads. If you change the heads and put on a decent dual exhaust you should get to at least 250HP without changing anything else. After that you need to start talking cams. Also if you did put on new heads you will probably find the bottom end was letting you down anyway.
Some good heads are the 64CC double humps (on the end of the heads are two humps like a camel) or aftermarket by GM (vortec), dart, edelbrock etc.
The best way is to find a package of the cam, heads and psitons for the power you want and an engine guy to build it. If you are going to all this trouble then make sure you balance it. It makes such a difference and greatly reduces your chances of putting a piston out the side. The 1970 350CI/300HP is a nice smooth cam but there are plenty made by Comp Cams which are probably better made. You can call Comp Cams and tell them how you want to drive it and they can reccomend a cam package (no cost for the quote)
I used the Engine Lab of Tampa. Owner is Dave Deegan. Quality shop with excellent machinery and a computer balancer. He can do porting, polishing, balancing etc WITH a warranty. They also put the engine on a rotating simulator and test the oil flow through the engine before it leaves the shop.
Just went through this whole saga. Be careful with the "while I am there" when you have the car apart. It gets more expensive every time you unbolt something!
Good luck.
Before you do anything get on http://www.amazon.com and look up two books. First one is "How to build a chevy small block for the street" and the other one is by Guilstrand on Small Blcoks. Together you will get both for less then $30. Peanuts considering what you are about to spend.
If you are not worried about originality then go with a crate motor. I just rebuilt my motor and it is cheaper (and faster) to put in a crate motor.
If you are chasing horsepower then you have to know your limits. I really don't think you will get 300HP out of that motor with those heads. If you change the heads and put on a decent dual exhaust you should get to at least 250HP without changing anything else. After that you need to start talking cams. Also if you did put on new heads you will probably find the bottom end was letting you down anyway.
Some good heads are the 64CC double humps (on the end of the heads are two humps like a camel) or aftermarket by GM (vortec), dart, edelbrock etc.
The best way is to find a package of the cam, heads and psitons for the power you want and an engine guy to build it. If you are going to all this trouble then make sure you balance it. It makes such a difference and greatly reduces your chances of putting a piston out the side. The 1970 350CI/300HP is a nice smooth cam but there are plenty made by Comp Cams which are probably better made. You can call Comp Cams and tell them how you want to drive it and they can reccomend a cam package (no cost for the quote)
I used the Engine Lab of Tampa. Owner is Dave Deegan. Quality shop with excellent machinery and a computer balancer. He can do porting, polishing, balancing etc WITH a warranty. They also put the engine on a rotating simulator and test the oil flow through the engine before it leaves the shop.
Just went through this whole saga. Be careful with the "while I am there" when you have the car apart. It gets more expensive every time you unbolt something!
Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,135
Likes: 71
From: Umeå Sweden
Re: Motor work, 1974 (stingry)
first off all welcome to the forum!!!
Well there is meny things you can do to a 350.
but its not cheap!
best i think is to get a stroker kit to it.
then add some headers and true dual exhaust
then you gonna have a fun engine to play with!!
:smash: :cheers: :smash:
Well there is meny things you can do to a 350.
but its not cheap!
best i think is to get a stroker kit to it.
then add some headers and true dual exhaust
then you gonna have a fun engine to play with!!
:smash: :cheers: :smash:
