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. I corrected the problem because it wasn't worth the time and additional shipping cost to send them back.
That would have been an easy fix for you Gary. I would have indicated the axle shaft it's self to make sure the chuck is running true then taken a light skim off the outer flange.
Hi Norval,
That's what I had to do. It sure doesn't help the guy who doesn't have a lathe or has to bring to someone to fix. New parts should be machined to tighter tolerances or fail in house inspection.
Gary
I think it is common practice for companies that sell to the major car manufacturers to sell the parts that are outside acceptable tolerances to the aftermarket retail companies. This is the junk we have to deal with. You wouldn't believe some of the crap I have recieved and paid top dollar for. Some of these companies advertise on this site. I just purchaces a new transmission, I can hardly wait to pull it back out and return it because reverse doesn't work......heck, who needs reverse, what, a qualified over priced mechanic didn't install it, well sorry the warrantee is void....I can here it all now!! :rant:
KJL
I would of sent you 2 new spindles if they had a high of a run out and would of had your old ones picked up. I go through about 100 new spindles a month and in the past 6 months I've had about 6 bad spindles.
I am sure you would have, out of the 100 spindles, how many folks do you think would have checked them for runout problems? How many would have done thier own install and how many mechanics would check them let alone own a dial gauge? I bet you got more bad spindles than you think. The problem for me was having to take it apart again, which may have resulted in wrecked bearings as well. Plus my time is worth more than the parts. It just seems that when it comes to aftermarket parts I have to do everything twice. My biggest concern is strength. I hope that the strength of the "bad" spindle that I paid top dollar for is not compromised. If it breaks, you may be hearing from me again.
Well that fine and I'll stand behind my product. Honestly out of all those spindles I maybe sold 4 or 5 to a customers. We hardly ever sell just spindles. Most of the time we are rebuilding the unit and I was referring to all those spindles that we put in the unit we rebuild. If you put it together right you should have no problems.
Most of you are only checking the OUTER face of the rotor, right? I don't think there's any way to check the inner face with the brake shield in place is there? So if you're within spec on the outer face you're not guaranteed the inner face isn't "running out". I have to believe that the outer & inner faces could in fact yield different readings, right?
My outer face on the right rear has a max of .009" measured at the outer edge of the rotor's braking surface. Measured mine with all lug nuts in place and tightened. Mounted the magnetic base on the trailing are so the rotor and the base move as a unit in the event I flex the trailing arm while spinning the rear wheel. I believe it's also important to have the dial indicator feeler as perpendicular to the face of the rotor as possible to obtain the most accurate readings.
I guess .009" is high, but until I pluck the calipers to put the o-ring upgrade pistons/seals in them it's going to have to do.
Someone please help me understand one thing. How can being out of runout spec by a few thousanths "suck" air back into the system? Don't the caliper piston seals perform their intended "sealing" function as the pistons moves in, and out? :confused:
Most of you are only checking the OUTER face of the rotor, right? I don't think there's any way to check the inner face with the brake shield in place is there? So if you're within spec on the outer face you're not guaranteed the inner face isn't "running out". I have to believe that the outer & inner faces could in fact yield different readings, right?
My outer face on the right rear has a max of .009" measured at the outer edge of the rotor's braking surface. Measured mine with all lug nuts in place and tightened. Mounted the magnetic base on the trailing are so the rotor and the base move as a unit in the event I flex the trailing arm while spinning the rear wheel. I believe it's also important to have the dial indicator feeler as perpendicular to the face of the rotor as possible to obtain the most accurate readings.
I guess .009" is high, but until I pluck the calipers to put the o-ring upgrade pistons/seals in them it's going to have to do.
Someone please help me understand one thing. How can being out of runout spec by a few thousanths "suck" air back into the system? Don't the caliper piston seals perform their intended "sealing" function as the pistons moves in, and out? :confused:
[Modified by ettev, 4:14 PM 4/24/2004]
Circular runout will be equal at outer and inner faces because the thickness of the rotor is likely within .001". If it is not, then the rotor has been poorly machined, or has warped and you would probably notice severe pedal pulsing and poor braking control.
The OE piston seals are known as lip-seals, which means they are energized by pressure, ie: the more pressure, the better they seal. However, this type of seal in only 1-directional, therefore they can leak under certain circumstances, hence 'sucking air'
IMO, cases of calipers sucking air from rotor runout are a greatly overstated. I think most problems come from corroded piston bores due to old fluid resulting in a bad seal.
I've had new Tom's spindles runout over .005' on the flange. I had the spindle chucked in a lathe and rotated it by hand slowly without the studs installed. I even bought them in to a buddies machine rebuilding shop to have them checked on his lathe and still had runout in them. I corrected the problem because it wasn't worth the time and additional shipping cost to send them back.
Gary
I will tell you right here and now, I will only use International Axel spindles in my Vettes after mistakenly using Tom's K-A spindles in my car (the only Kick A** is the frustration of getting them to set-up, I had my A** KICKED by some improper machining on my set of spindles!) Corvette Central carries International Axel spindles, while they're over $100 each they are the best on the market! The spindle spacer and shim kit from International Axel also KICKS A** on anything else on the market (for the record, Tom calls his axels: Kick A** so that is my parody on his brand name.)