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Removing Trailing Arms

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Old Apr 25, 2004 | 02:26 PM
  #1  
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Default Removing Trailing Arms

Are there any "tricks" to removing the trailing arms FROM THE FRAME? It looks to me like removing the bolt could be difficult. Sawzall? Any input is very much appreciated. :confused:
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Old Apr 25, 2004 | 02:36 PM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (73 Vet)

Coat with penetrating oil days before removing. If they're not too rusted it will be no problem. I was fortunate that mine were not. I have read posts from others who have had to resort to a sawzal to cut the bolts.


[Modified by 71stingraybigblock, 1:37 PM 4/25/2004]
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Old Apr 25, 2004 | 03:50 PM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (71stingraybigblock)

Let the horror stories begin!

I hope you'll be lucky - my buddy was and they unbolted on his car but it took me hours and many sawzall blades to get mine. Make sure you use stainless hardware and never-seize when you put it back together!
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Old Apr 25, 2004 | 04:16 PM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (73 Vet)

Mine were covered with undercoating, scraped that away and they came right out. I replaced them with stainless steel bolts just incase I Have to get them of some time.
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Old Apr 25, 2004 | 05:02 PM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (73 Vet)

If you can't pound them out, try to remove the shims, if the shims don't come out you will have to cut through them. 9 inch bi-metal sawzall blades and a good sawzall. Good luck
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Old Apr 25, 2004 | 11:32 PM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (73 Vet)

I just took mine out this Sat. 5 hours later and 8---- 12 inch saw blades, use the longer ones because you only use about one and a half inches of the tip of the blade, then I use my cut off tool and shorten it the same amount, that way you get more cuts per blade. They should use this as a punishment for people in jail, It could possible that it would reduce crime!!!!! :chevy
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 12:51 AM
  #7  
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (BEBOP138)

They should use this as a punishment for people in jail, It could possible that it would reduce crime!!!!! :chevy

:iagree: :yesnod: :yesnod:
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 07:48 AM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (FASGLAS)

Just cut my '75's out last week-about an hour on each one. Cut through the shims IF you can't get them out. Stay away from the bushing metal as it's case hardened and you'll waste time & saw bits trying to cut through it(don't ask how I know this :lol: ). It also easier if you tie it up as high as you can get it with wire up to the frame to give you more working room. For people who've been able to get that bolt out without cutting them are one lucky SOB. I've done two sets now(both with Mr. SawsAll), so I'm fairly experienced at "Sawsall" cutting :lolg: My new Bair's stock trailing arms are already re-installed, getting ready to drop the rear end back down on the ground after "month's" in the air :D
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 08:04 AM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (Paul Borowski)

I've used sawzalls and a torch to cut my 69's. They were really rusted in place. I've used the new arms on the market to rebuild a few arms and they're a good reproduction.
I've also lucked out and had a couple of bolts that slid right out.
Gary
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 08:10 AM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (73 Vet)

The sawzall is your friend. Trust me on this one. :thumbs:
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 09:58 AM
  #11  
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (vettfixr)

My 75 was rusted to the bushing sleeve solid. Those are still in the donor frame.
The 70 chassis that I bought came apart and I had the entire rear suspension out in about 1 hour.
lucky lucky lucky !!

:smash: :seeya
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 12:32 PM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (NHvette)

PB Blaster, liberally applied for several days before surgery will prepare the patient. But, be prepared to hack with power tools as necessary and get a big :smash: and some :cheers: ready for the shock mounts. Those are equally fun!
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 02:10 PM
  #13  
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (R. Bruno)

You guys are great.........what's PB Blaster? I've had the shock mounts off to install VBP strut rods. They've got a kool-tool, a srew-on cap basically, that you pound on. Worked good. Got the :smash: got the :cheers: Should be good to go.


[Modified by 73 Vet, 10:10 AM 4/26/2004]
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 03:44 PM
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (73 Vet)

if you have to resort to the sawzall...use milwalkee "torch" blades. they are the best. hell of a job. :boxing
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 06:20 PM
  #15  
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (brooksman9)

PB Blaster is a good quality penetrant oil (one of the best I've ever used). I've had very difficult bolted connections come apart after liberal soaking with the stuff (like days and days worth of soaking). Didn't help much with my t/arms though...
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 11:55 PM
  #16  
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (Frank75)

Try Aerokroil or Silikroil. They are probably the best penetrants on the market. Kano Industries in NC makes all Kroil products. They have a website. My trailing arms were hard to get off but I was able to do it without the sawzall. I believe it was because my car has been garaged most of its life. My crossmember was a different story. I tried everything including chaining a 1275cc MG engine to it and letting it tug it down for a couple of days. I then tried the Silikroil (Aerokroil with silicone) and it came off with a little crowbar action. Silikroil will penetrate into an opening a millionth of an inch. Good luck.
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 01:20 AM
  #17  
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Default Re: Removing Trailing Arms (BEBOP138)

I just took mine out this Sat. 5 hours later and 8---- 12 inch saw blades, use the longer ones because you only use about one and a half inches of the tip of the blade, then I use my cut off tool and shorten it the same amount, that way you get more cuts per blade. They should use this as a punishment for people in jail, It could possible that it would reduce crime!!!!!
:iagree: :lolg: :lolg:

I went through about 12 blades also, but it was better than wasting time trying to finesse them out. If you spend more than a half hour and they don't budge, rent a sawzall. Unfortunately, you can only use about the last inch and a half - be careful because I snapped several blades when the tip hit the car. Also, replace with SS parts - bolts, shims & cotter pins.

Good luck...

:)
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