IT'S FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BOOKMARK THIS PAGE AND CHECK FOR PERIODIC UPDATES http://home.comcast.net/~ddecart/Transmission.html


I've got pics that I'll turn into a website one of these days with lots of details.

Let's see....

Clutch is in
Exhaust has been removed
Crossmember is ready to be cut
Adapter plate (installing Ford 7003Z Motorsport T5 tranny) is being made

Should be cutting the crossmember tomorrow
I have some 1/4" steel plate to make it removable (details to follow)

SO the trans should be going in fo the first time this weekend. I'll need to fab up the crossmember and trans mount bracket, set the driveline angles, and get the drivesaft made. And cut the hole for the shifter.

I'm still not sure what to do about the slip-yoke. Do I make a one-piece yoke work, or do I shell out for one with removable caps? Hmmm....


[Modified by ddecart, 11:41 PM 4/28/2004]


[Modified by ddecart, 2:15 PM 5/22/2004]

 

Go ahead and IM FAUXRS. I believe he used a slip yoke out of a lincoln. Old man running Driveline automotive on Morena Blvd shop did the work for less than $60. Check at http://earchitect.50megs.com/corvette/gearedup.htm

 

He used a TKO, which has a different output shaft spline than the T5 I belive. I've checked around and nobody shows a 28 spline yoke with removable caps.

 

The clutch should be out. After you get the adaptor you want to install it loosely on the bellhousing and use a dial indicator to index the plate for under .005 runout. I would then dowl the plate with a few 1/4 inch dowels for future alignment. I would also install studs in the plate for the transmission and then do a trial fit WITHOUT the clutch installed.
Do the clutch installation last . Leaving it out gives you a place to mount the dial indicator and also make sure the transmission fits without the complications of the clutch ligning up.
Install the clutch last before the final installation.
Good luck and keep us informed. I have an interest in this too. :thumbs: :thumbs:

 

Making progress :thumbs: Got the crossmember out tonight (was going to do it last night, but a hockey game was on. Gotta have priorities!)

I was thinking about the runout thing Norval. What I'm planning on doing is hooking a dial gage up to a dowel that's snugly fit into the clutch disc. Then I'll have a solidly mounted gage and I can mess with the bellhousing/adapter from there. I might have to turn down a piece of wood for the dowel, but that's easy :yesnod:

Put the pics so far into a webpage. http://home.comcast.net/~ddecart/Transmission.html

The adapter should be done by the weekend, so I hope to have a trial fit by then. Now I just need to learn how to weld and I'll be all set! :lol:

 

Hey Norval. When you made the T5 yoke to have bearing caps, what basically did you do? How did you go about it?

 

as far as the yoke thing goes...
i made a tool from a C-clamp and a socket and it works like a champ!
it is SO easy to use that it simply isnt worth trying to find another yoke...IMO

 

Great looking pics...keep it up! :cheers:

 

I'm with signguy, I used the yoke that came with the Tremec and installed and removed it to make sure it would come out. I used a small puller and C clamp to do this. Works fine.

If you use the clutch for the indicator it is not going to be as accurate as the flywheel. There is a little slop in the bolt holes and when you are talking thousandths of an inch every little bit counts. I'm with Norval and trial fit everything with the clutch out. I know it is already in but I think you will get better results and it will be easier with it out. Sounds good so far. Keep us posted on the progress.

 

Lookin good Dave :thumbs: I remember taking the sawzall to my crossmember thinking, "what the heck am I doing to this Corvette :crazy: " but I'm glad that I went that route :yesnod:

:cheers:

 

me too...here are some pix of mine...
i kept my bolt holes low so as not to crush it if they were overtightened...
also...i used stainless bolts and double nutted them for saftey...




something else i did was put a spacer inside of where the e-brake pully goes and move the pully to the outside for clearance of the yoke...
i also "tweaked" it a little...
works great!



[Modified by SIGNGUY, 7:22 AM 4/29/2004]

 

You could actually fit that thing under the car in the tunnel? That's what I was thinking about doing, but I didn't think a C-clamp would have enough clearance to get in there.

 

The clutch disc is a direct reference to the flywheel without any tolerance stack-up or anything. The disc hole makes a convenient place to attach to with a dowel. Even if the disc is off center relative to the flywheel, it won't matter. The offset from center won't matter as the assembly turns.

 

I am just use to using a magnetic base on the flywheel, I have one set up for this job so doing it your way is not a problem.
The first time you do a trial fit to see if anything is binding, the transmission doesn't seat all the way, anything at all with the fit it complicated by the clutch. Without the clutch in place other then aligning the input shaft to crank everything just slides together, any other problems show themselves.
With the clutch in place you end up wiggling and pushing, trying to align the splines and yes I have a clutch alignment tool but the clutch still causes problems.
How will you knw if it is a clutch alignement problem or something with the transmission itself???
I would remove the clutch, do the fit checking and put the clutch in last.
It is no big deal to pull the pressure plate and install last after the test fit,
Also be sure to install studs in the adaptor for the transmission mounting. It really make lifting the transmission in place easier. Just slide it over the studs and it holds instelf in place. It is a better idea then trying to start 4 bolts into threaded holes.
Mustangs come with take apart pinions on the back. They just use a universal holder and with 4 bolts bolt it to the pinion. I used theis universal holder and make a plate that I welded to the c5 yoke. I then bolted the 2 together for a quick take apart yoke.
I also heard that the lincoln had a yoke that comes apart.
While the C clamp idea looks good is there room to use the clamp in our tight tunnels.

 

Gotcha! :thumbs:
I tried out the Lincoln idea and came up dry. The closest I could find referenced was a 27 spline and not a 28 spline. Only 1 off, a hammer should make it fit, right? :smash: :D

 

Dumb question, how come you can't unbolt the drive shaft from the rear diff yoke and insert the tranny yoke first? You will have to have at least half the diameter of the u joint cap in play either way in order to install the drive shaft with the tranny and eng is place. Or is the rear yoke not a 50/50 cap meaning the cap is cut more to front of the car?

Looks like a center cut on the 65-71, not sure about post 70:




[Modified by Fevre, 9:27 AM 4/29/2004]

 

With a removable crossmember there is plenty of room to use a C clamp. Just drop the crossmember and lower the rear of the trans a little and there is plenty of room. If the crossmember is fixed I doubt there is enough room.

 

Excellent. I'll check it out once I get the trans test-fit. :thumbs:

 

Dave

How are you going to set up the pinion angles? That is about the only thing I am really worries about doing the swap.

 

Need to get a protractor-level thingy. Shim the diff and/or the trans mount as needed to nudge them into the proper alignment. I'll fill you in more once I do it! :lol: