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I have a C3 that I autocross. I have disc brakes with 4 piston calipers, carbon metallic pads and the stock rotors. I lose a lot of time because I have to brake early since my stopping distance with this set up is not that great. What cost effective alternatives are out there to upgrade my system?
While a properly working C3 setup should lock the tires, many folks here
have praised the improved reaction and feel in a hydroboost system.
Not sure how it would be for autocrossing.
From: WAY DEEP INSIDE AMERICO,YES YOU LIVE HERE TO!! TX
Re: Performance Brake Upgrade for C3 (Fevre)
I have the SSBC rotors and pads, they will lock up on demand!
believe me on that :D this has happened more than once.
Overall, they work great together cost for all, about $425.00
Four pistons:) that's great! I like to see fellow modded Vette's. I use Auto Zone Performance Friction Carbon metalic on the fronts and Ceramic metalic on the rear.
Carbon metalic work for me because I get my brakes really hot when I'm out lapping on a road course. In your auto-X your not even getting any heat in them till the end of the course. Hawk or some organic pads are what you need when cold.
Years ago I tried bronze metalics. They work like a champ if you want to replace rotors along with each set of pads.
The hydraboost system boosts line pressure. Which will help. But talk to some pad companies about cold stopping.
You will have to completly clean your brake rototrs with a "prep pad" to sucessfully switch brake pad compounds (they are sold in auto parts stores.) The Hawk HPS or Porterfield R4 compound will work well at the autocross races. I have found the Performance Friction pad material to be good for track lapping sessions BUT, not consistent enough at low tempratures to be usefull in autocross racing.
I appreciate all the feedback. Your right about the temperature of the pads. I think I will give the hawks a try and see how they work. Thanks for the info on cleaning the rotors first.
Got some numbers today, for what their worth. I got a best of around 140ft 60-0, which compares well to a 1998 Camaro SS's 129ft 60-0.
This is from a GTech (I need to buy my own!) on damp pavement and I wasn't driving my best.... air in the brakes too!
Of course brake fade and feel are something else altogether, just thought I'd get some numbers for you guys.
-Chris
Edit: Ford SVT Mustang 123ft
GMC Typhoon 159ft (strangely I ran across this, the friend with the Gtech drives one)
C4 at 134ft (don't know year, etc.)
Zo6s are down nearly to the 100ft mark.
My 255ft/275rr tires are surely a big factor. I'm really interested to see what it can do now...
550lb front springs, 400lb rear 5leaf, poly bushings and new balljoints in the front. Nothing fancy, but I suppose the springs help weight transfer too.
I appreciate all the feedback. Your right about the temperature of the pads. I think I will give the hawks a try and see how they work. Thanks for the info on cleaning the rotors first.
REMEMBER! I said you will have to clean the rotor faces with a prep pad to remove the old friction material from the rotors. You will be wasting your time if you do not do this proceedure. You need to break-in the new pads per Hawk's instructions and go enjoy your newfound braking power. You had also better have LESS tahn 0.005" rotor runout, actually I won't accept over 0.0025" myself, otherwise the piston chatter will suck air into the system and you are kidding yourself on having a performance brake system. You will like the HPS Hawk pads, they are very good performers but, please don't cry about the brake dust! you can't have it all.