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Help!! 82 died on me today

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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 12:52 PM
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Default Help!! 82 died on me today

On my way to work today my car acted like it was out of gas, but it had a full tank. I would touch the gas and it would want to die, when I let off it would idle, untill I came to a stop that is. Now it won't run.

I took the fuel line free from the TB and there is plenty of fuel flowing!!

It was just sitting there not running and the TB's kicked on and filled the area above the butterfly with fuel. Sometimes they will spray way too much and sometimes not enough. I changed the CTS just for giggles and no change.

HELP!!! I should be at work
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 01:03 PM
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Weird, did it trip a code? If so, read them to see what it says.

You checked fuel flow, but did you check the pressure also? What T do you mean, the TB's have hard lines on all connections, feed, crossover & return. There's only rubber between the lines on the frame and the return, the filter & feed.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 01:34 PM
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No Code was tripped.

I checked fuel at both the feed and return lines. It flowed like my Holley Blue pump on my Camaro, I don't know the pressure, but there was plenty of volume!
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 01:39 PM
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Same thing happened to me yesterday with my 77. But before it died, the tach jumped around a little. At first I thought I was out of gas by the way it acted (my gas gauge doesn't work very well). But when I put in more, it didn't help.

Then checked for a spark and there was none, so checked the distributor. Turned out to be a bad ignition coil ($15.99 at Autozone). It had apparently got too hot (I don't think it had the protective paste on it to keep it from overheating). Changed it out and she fired right up. But it did seem like it was out of gas first.

Good luck.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 01:59 PM
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check the pressure first, no diagnosing without that.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
check the pressure first, no diagnosing without that.
on a FI engine that would idle only On a carb see if it's getting
fuel threw accelerator nozzle's
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 04:37 PM
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OK

On the return line I have about 12psi after 3-4 sec of cranking the engine

Now what
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 04:58 PM
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Ignition module? Though it goes out instantly, I think.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:09 PM
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pressure is fine.

Check MAP, CTS (conenction!!!), TPS.

When you sau the injectors fired and filled the throat of the TB with fuel, ign. was on but was the engine NOT running?
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:15 PM
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Twin_Turbo
Yes. The car was not running, I tried to start it about 3min before, but left the key in the foreward position. Then I heard it spraying and it stopped just before the TB bores over flowed.
When I first got it home the TB were flowing WAY too much fuel, now they are not flowing enough. I unhooked the injecters to see if fuel would flow with no pulse, but nothing happened. Hooked them back up and checked the TPS and it read 0.52V so I think that's OK.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:20 PM
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I just hooked up the battery after having it undone for about 20min and still no go
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:22 PM
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There's a prime function, the pump runs for a few secs and stops and when cold the injecors fire a little fuel also but not even close to the amount you are talking about. With the engine not running something is seriously out of what. Recheck the CTS, it's the only thing that can accoutn for such massive amoutns of fuel apart from a sticking injector.

Did the amount of fuel change from too much to too little when you changed the CTS?
Check the connectors at the firewall also.

TPS is fine at 0,52V.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:23 PM
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What's it doing now? no fuel, too much fuel ??

Can you give a step by step description of what you are doing and what the engine is doing ?
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:30 PM
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I did not see it dump fuel like that after changing the CTS.
Now it looks like not enough fuel. Is there a way to check the CTS reading from the 2 wires leaving the sensor?

Every once in a while the car will start for a couple seconds and idle real rough, as soon as you touch the gas the engine starts to cut out, but I don't see any more fuel being sprayed, that's why I don't think I am getting enough fuel.

I don't know if this is a clue or not but..
Ever since I got the car it would not start with the first turn of the key when cold. If I cranked for about 3 sec and stop I would have to crank it for about 3-4 more seconds for the car to start. Once it was warm it was OK
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:37 PM
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The massive fuel dump was a faulty CTS or connection then (most likely) since that's what it does when the connection is poor (high resistance). higehr resistance -> colder temps > more fuel added as a sort of "choke" function.

You can probe the resistance of the CTTS and compare it to known numbers. I don't have the resistance vs. temperature table handy but the #s for the TPI engines are the same (same sensor range, might be a smart thing to upgrade to TPI weatherpack CTS)

If you apply the throttle no extra fuel is added? Does the injector clicking sound go up with rpm ?

The cold start problems are not that uncommon, fuel puddling is a major problem and could mean you need a little more fuel (apply throttle) or cranking for a bit longer.

The fact that the engine cuts out is very strange, start the car, go to the engine compartment and operate the throttle by hand so you can watch the spray pattern and see how much fuel is going in (hurray for TBI where you can actually see that ). Be sure to cap off the pass. TB vac. port running to the thermac switch under the aircleaner base.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:54 PM
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The car will not run, I had to dump some fuel out of a gas can down the TB to start it, it would idle for a bit, but no amount of throttle would change the amount of fuel from the injectors. It is just a small amount, but a nice circular pattern with no gaps in the pulses. just a nice tic tic tic tic.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 06:08 PM
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Try it by hand with the throttle lever on the TB so you can see what it's doing. Looks as if the ECM is not getting an RPM signal, that could very well be the EST (module)

How is the wiring? untampered with ?
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 06:12 PM
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I did do it by hand.
What and where is an EST?
Wireing is a bit messy.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 06:22 PM
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Ok EST= Distributor Electric Spark Timing

What does it look like? Under the cap it looks just like any other HEI.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 06:40 PM
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OOPS

Looks like the Vette Dist has 4 extra wires that exit out of the rear of it.

How can i tell if this is bad or not?
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