Demon fuel line connection?
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
Demon fuel line connection?
Question for those that have used Demons. Going to be installing a 750 speed demon w/ mech secondaries. I have Lars paper on building a fuel line and installing a demon. One shows an A/C GF481 filter, the other a Summit red filter for twice the price. Are the line fittings going to be the same for each one? Is one better then the other or is it just a matter of taste which style is perferred? I want to be sure to order the correct parts for either setup so I don;t get in the middle of it find I'm missing a small part?
Thanks in advance,
Gary
Thanks in advance,
Gary
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,160
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From: Connecticut, USA
ok let me clearify, I'm going use steel line from the pump to an inline filter, to the Demon. The questions I have are:
On the 2 types of filters-is one better then the other?
Are the fittings the same? I'm not sure if the connections on the filters use the same type of fittings?
Why is only a single flare required at the Demon fitting?
Or am I just not understanding this setup correctly?
We are wanting to build a setup like Lars did for Signguy but that paper I can't find!
hope this helps
Gary
On the 2 types of filters-is one better then the other?
Are the fittings the same? I'm not sure if the connections on the filters use the same type of fittings?
Why is only a single flare required at the Demon fitting?
Or am I just not understanding this setup correctly?
We are wanting to build a setup like Lars did for Signguy but that paper I can't find!
hope this helps
Gary
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
gtr -
The one paper shows the use of the GM high pressure O-ringed filter. This is a neat way to go because it uses a highly reliable filter with a lot of filtering area, and it looks kinda' stock. The other paper shows the use of the Summit AN-connection filter. This filter does not require use of the special GM O-ringed fuel line, and you can make the flared interface connections yourself. But the red (or blue) anodized filter does not look stock at all. Both methods work great, but require different interfaces with the filter - you cannot use the GM filter with anything other than the O-ringed fuel line referenced in the fuel line article. The Summit filter can only be used with flared AN connectons. It's all just a matter of what you want to build and how you want it to look.
The one paper shows the use of the GM high pressure O-ringed filter. This is a neat way to go because it uses a highly reliable filter with a lot of filtering area, and it looks kinda' stock. The other paper shows the use of the Summit AN-connection filter. This filter does not require use of the special GM O-ringed fuel line, and you can make the flared interface connections yourself. But the red (or blue) anodized filter does not look stock at all. Both methods work great, but require different interfaces with the filter - you cannot use the GM filter with anything other than the O-ringed fuel line referenced in the fuel line article. The Summit filter can only be used with flared AN connectons. It's all just a matter of what you want to build and how you want it to look.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
Thanks Lars. I'll re-read your papers tonight. I like the looks of the a/c setup but it's for my son's car so he'll have to decide what he wants. He doesn't care too much about stock just what's going to make more power and looks cool ! 
Gary
Gary
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Clayton NC
With the set up for the fuel line like Lars has here is some info I posted a few days ago.. Dave..
The shield is made out of aluminium so it bends easily and better yet it cuts easily.. Here is my set up with a BG SD 650 mech sec.. You can use the chrome line or use this set up.. 70 LT1 pump to carb from any of the ware houses... Dave
The shield is made out of aluminium so it bends easily and better yet it cuts easily.. Here is my set up with a BG SD 650 mech sec.. You can use the chrome line or use this set up.. 70 LT1 pump to carb from any of the ware houses... Dave
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Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
Nice pictures guys, I still have to sit and read the papers again. I will "hard pipe" it all the way.
Cory looks like you'll be on the road soon huh? You'll have to stop over so we can take a look. we're going to go with the 750 mechnical no choke Speed Demon,it should be in tomorrow in fact.
Gary
Cory looks like you'll be on the road soon huh? You'll have to stop over so we can take a look. we're going to go with the 750 mechnical no choke Speed Demon,it should be in tomorrow in fact.
Gary
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The best Demon connections!
With our new improved forum how do you do file management or post images that were kept on our CF home page?
Last edited by gkull; Jul 14, 2004 at 01:57 PM.
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Originally Posted by youwish2bme
Corz btw LOVED the video man.... On the setup I just couldn't bring myself to softline connections... I've heard to many horror stories.. Dave..
and Gary, once I get my brakes bled, and my tranny functional, I'll swing down
Thread Starter
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From: Connecticut, USA
I got in a double flaring tool set from Eastwoods today. It looks like the KD set in the tool catalogs and may be,it only says made in the USA on the label.
I played around with a couple of 5/16 flares and found the first flare seems to come out egg shaped. I deburred it,filed the OD lip, and used a razor on the ID lip. Dressed the face. I noticed the flare tip and seats are not really machined smooth,what can I expect for a $30 kit right?
The last flare I did wasn't too bad and think would have worked if it was indeed a new fabrication.
Any advice other then practice makes perfect? I was thinking of polishing the flare seats and tip smooth to see if that would produce a better end.
Thanks,
Gary
I played around with a couple of 5/16 flares and found the first flare seems to come out egg shaped. I deburred it,filed the OD lip, and used a razor on the ID lip. Dressed the face. I noticed the flare tip and seats are not really machined smooth,what can I expect for a $30 kit right?
The last flare I did wasn't too bad and think would have worked if it was indeed a new fabrication.
Any advice other then practice makes perfect? I was thinking of polishing the flare seats and tip smooth to see if that would produce a better end.
Thanks,
Gary
