Who here can lock up their brakes?
#21
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Wisconsin
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Hmm, I'll have to give hydraboost a try. I wish Mrvette would chime in because I believe he has it done the cheap way, off another vehicle. I think Norval has that as well though.
#22
Le Mans Master
No power brakes, HD pads, braided lines, VB calipers, Valvoline Max Dot 3/4 fluid and I can lock all 4 up if I stomp on the pedal. I personally like the feedback from the manual brake setup.
#24
Melting Slicks
So I'm not the only one here with poor brakes? Not comforting. That said, my system is completely stock with a rebuilt booster. And although I really have to stand on 'em, I can lock all four up. I've had three sharks over the years, and I haven't had one I couldn't lock up.
#25
It is my opinion, and I might catch some heat for it, but if you can't lock your brakes, something is wrong!! The amount of pedal pressure required to accomplish this will vary greatly depending on whether the system is manual, vacuum boosted or fluid boosted but bottom line is if you can't do that, don't waste your money on brake upgrades till your system, in stock condition, can do just that. Then if you like the feel of a power pedal (I don't) then and only then is it a wise choice to upgrade to a power assist type system.
Craig
Craig
Last edited by VetteNut72; 07-15-2004 at 03:16 PM.
#27
Instructor
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My '69 will lock them up whenever I ask it to. Not that I make a habit of it. My brakes are stock with the exception of Vette Brakes sleeved calipers with OEM pistons, seals, boots and pads.
#29
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by VetteNut72
It is my opinion, and I might catch some heat for it, but if you can't lock your brakes, something is wrong!! The amount of pedal pressure required to accomplish this will vary greatly depending on whether the system is manual, vacuum boosted or fluid boosted but bottom line is if you can't do that, don't waste your money on brake upgrades till your system, in stock condition, can do just that. Then if you like the feel of a power pedal (I don't) then and only then is it a wise choice to upgrade to a power assist type system.
Craig
Craig
I guess if I just absolutely stood on them, I could get them to lock. But it doesn't seem like I should have to do that. I'm used to cars like my Integra and Stealth where I could lock up the tires at will with just one foot applying moderate pressure. In fact, the bigger challenge in those cars was not to lock them up.
Last edited by wcsinx; 07-15-2004 at 04:22 PM.
#30
Originally Posted by wcsinx
I guess if I just absolutely stood on them, I could get them to lock. But it doesn't seem like I should have to do that. I'm used to cars like my Integra and Stealth where I could lock up the tires at will with just one foot applying moderate pressure. In fact, the bigger challenge in those cars was not to lock them up.
Craig
#31
Team Owner
Schmucker, I have not done anything about the booster section of my brakes, but in fact they will not lock the wheels, and I been trying to get them to be that powerful, but using DOT 5 fluid, and stock hoses means that even with the truck master cylinder, and shortened pushrod to the cylinder, they still do not lock up.....
I dunno what to do next, I too can't see from the diagrams why exactly, the booster could be at fault....the pedal will go to the floor if I put enough size 13 brogans on it....but not lock up....plenty of pedal travel, but not overly...brakes feel like a typical GM car, soft and mushy....never had one that didn't....
HOses?? not the calipers, been all OVER them over the last ten years....O ring, no springs...not much runout either....
I even tried removing the pressure differential switch/distrib block, ala Norval suggestion....no improvement, in reality, but a small leak was fixed....more like a weep from the switch section....
so the question is....can anyone specifically ID just HOW that vacuum booster can cause this 'lo pedal, squishey' feel???
and exactly what a hydroboost can do to fix the problems....
GENE
I dunno what to do next, I too can't see from the diagrams why exactly, the booster could be at fault....the pedal will go to the floor if I put enough size 13 brogans on it....but not lock up....plenty of pedal travel, but not overly...brakes feel like a typical GM car, soft and mushy....never had one that didn't....
HOses?? not the calipers, been all OVER them over the last ten years....O ring, no springs...not much runout either....
I even tried removing the pressure differential switch/distrib block, ala Norval suggestion....no improvement, in reality, but a small leak was fixed....more like a weep from the switch section....
so the question is....can anyone specifically ID just HOW that vacuum booster can cause this 'lo pedal, squishey' feel???
and exactly what a hydroboost can do to fix the problems....
GENE
#32
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by VetteNut72
Are your brakes power or standard? If they are power and you can't get them to lock without applying excessive pedal pressure, then you most likely have a problem somewhere in your brake system. If they are manual, then it will take some pedal force to lock but not an unreasonable amount.
Craig
Craig
#33
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mrvette
I dunno what to do next, I too can't see from the diagrams why exactly, the booster could be at fault....the pedal will go to the floor if I put enough size 13 brogans on it....but not lock up....plenty of pedal travel, but not overly...brakes feel like a typical GM car, soft and mushy....never had one that didn't....
#34
Race Director
As I said earlier, I had the same problem and it was the booster. In my admittedly limited experience (sample size of 3) rebuilt boosters are junk. New boosters are available from GM. Under $200 from gmpartsdirect last time I checked and they work.
#37
Race Director
Originally Posted by VetteNut72
It is my opinion, and I might catch some heat for it, but if you can't lock your brakes, something is wrong!! The amount of pedal pressure required to accomplish this will vary greatly depending on whether the system is manual, vacuum boosted or fluid boosted but bottom line is if you can't do that, don't waste your money on brake upgrades till your system, in stock condition, can do just that. Then if you like the feel of a power pedal (I don't) then and only then is it a wise choice to upgrade to a power assist type system.
Craig
Craig
#38
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MotorHead
I have to agree I will go one step further and say I wouldn't drive the car if you couldn't lock them up, I could lock up parents '63 Rambler
#39
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Waterloo ontario Canada
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Originally Posted by Schmucker
Hmm, I'll have to give hydraboost a try. I wish Mrvette would chime in because I believe he has it done the cheap way, off another vehicle. I think Norval has that as well though.
Anyway the last unit I got was from a 94 one ton truck and it was in perfect shape, no rust, no leaks and I could have everything I wanted to go with it.
Also the original plate works great and only a shortening of the linkage is required. I used the stock NON power master cylinder but it needs slight modification.
Anyone wanted to do a little work on their own can have hydraboost for about $150CDN with lines IF you do the slight modifications to the unit and made up the lines at any hose shop.
#40
Safety Car
-Rebuilt power booster -Cardone
-New MC
-VBP O-ring caliper conversion from almost new SS sleeved calipers
-New OEM type pads
-New rotors
-Braided stainless flex hoses
Most of the brake hardware was new when I bought it but brakes were still bad due to bad power booster. I tore it all down and redid everything, omly adding the VBP Oringers, braided hoses. and the power booster. Tried the gravity method to bleed, but didn't get a solid pedal until I did the pump and hold method.
Can lock 'em up on demand now. Pedal is super solid too. Guess I got lucky with a rebuilt power booster. Had these now for over 2 years (3rd summer)
Brent...
-New MC
-VBP O-ring caliper conversion from almost new SS sleeved calipers
-New OEM type pads
-New rotors
-Braided stainless flex hoses
Most of the brake hardware was new when I bought it but brakes were still bad due to bad power booster. I tore it all down and redid everything, omly adding the VBP Oringers, braided hoses. and the power booster. Tried the gravity method to bleed, but didn't get a solid pedal until I did the pump and hold method.
Can lock 'em up on demand now. Pedal is super solid too. Guess I got lucky with a rebuilt power booster. Had these now for over 2 years (3rd summer)
Brent...