Brake bleeding order WITHOUT proportioning valve
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
I agree with 69autoXr,
Locking the rears early ( way early) can cuase the car to spin like a top.
When the fronts slide it's easy to handle the understeer, It's harder to handle oversteer...
Locking the rears early ( way early) can cuase the car to spin like a top.
When the fronts slide it's easy to handle the understeer, It's harder to handle oversteer...
Originally Posted by gkull
Not my car. Although I try to always do 95% of my braking in a straight line. I do agree that if you were turning just the slightest amount your going to loop your car.
It's been my experience on the street during panic stops or on the track doing 140 mph coming into a 40 mph turn. That when I really stomp on the brakes you can hear a sliding type sound and when you glace in the rear view mirror I see clouds of blue smoke and long black wide lines.
Now when I had front locking problems you see the clouds of blue smoke coming out of the front fender wells and you realize that the car won't turn into the corner and your just going straight. So you have tell yourself to get off the brakes and try for the turn. It's amazing how the front tires catch a grip again and your on through the turn. Where if you kept the brake on you would have been biting the guard rails.
I have never looped my car do to stomping on the brakes even in wet conditions because I always replace my tires when I notice that traction is going away. I have looped my car many times because of the gas petal going out of turns
It's been my experience on the street during panic stops or on the track doing 140 mph coming into a 40 mph turn. That when I really stomp on the brakes you can hear a sliding type sound and when you glace in the rear view mirror I see clouds of blue smoke and long black wide lines.
Now when I had front locking problems you see the clouds of blue smoke coming out of the front fender wells and you realize that the car won't turn into the corner and your just going straight. So you have tell yourself to get off the brakes and try for the turn. It's amazing how the front tires catch a grip again and your on through the turn. Where if you kept the brake on you would have been biting the guard rails.
I have never looped my car do to stomping on the brakes even in wet conditions because I always replace my tires when I notice that traction is going away. I have looped my car many times because of the gas petal going out of turns
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Originally Posted by wcsinx
I really don't think that's true. As I recall up to '68, the p-valves were adjustable, and '69-> just went with fixed adjustment valves.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 10,258
Likes: 1
From: Calif.
Originally Posted by NHvette
I'm sure it's been stated and discussed before, but our vettes
do NOT have a proportioning valve. The pressure proportioning
is achieved through a difference in the piston area from front to rear.
The "valve" should be more appropriately named "distribution
block with integral warning switch". It has a small piston
between the front and rear circuits. When one circuit lets go,
the other pushes on the piston and closes a warning switch.
So, all you lose is the warning light. Safety issue ? not really - IMO.
do NOT have a proportioning valve. The pressure proportioning
is achieved through a difference in the piston area from front to rear.
The "valve" should be more appropriately named "distribution
block with integral warning switch". It has a small piston
between the front and rear circuits. When one circuit lets go,
the other pushes on the piston and closes a warning switch.
So, all you lose is the warning light. Safety issue ? not really - IMO.
It's a "Pressure Differential Switch." Nothing but a dumb brass block with a piston inside that's held in a centered position by equal brake fluid pressure on each side from the front and rear systems. One side loses pressure, the piston is pushed away from center and makes electrical contact which lights the "BRAKES" idiot light.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: algonac michigan
Originally Posted by The Dude
It's a "Pressure Differential Switch." Nothing but a dumb brass block with a piston inside that's held in a centered position by equal brake fluid pressure on each side from the front and rear systems. One side loses pressure, the piston is pushed away from center and makes electrical contact which lights the "BRAKES" idiot light.
so will taking it out help braking at all ?
i dont think it would be that restrictive..........
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Who resurrected this damned thread? 
My distribution block/proportioning valve/idiot light switch is still installed and working. I thought it might be on its way out because the light would come everytime I hit the brakes really hard no matter how much I bled them. I replaced the MC and this problem went away. I guess an old, worn out MC can have a significant pressure difference front to rear.
My distribution block/proportioning valve/idiot light switch is still installed and working. I thought it might be on its way out because the light would come everytime I hit the brakes really hard no matter how much I bled them. I replaced the MC and this problem went away. I guess an old, worn out MC can have a significant pressure difference front to rear.
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