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Sticky Ignition

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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 08:21 AM
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From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Default Sticky Ignition

When I try to turn the key in the ignition it sometimes just doesn't wanna go. I have to push the key in & out, do the hokey pokey and eventually it frees up and I can start the darned thing.

The keys appear to be the originals and while they look ok, it could be because their worn. Unfortunately I do not have the tag with the key codes so I can't get "fresh" keys made, any key I would have made would be copies of what may already be the problem. I know today's cars, you give the dealer the VIN and they can reproduce the key, but something tells me that ain't the case for my 1980.

I've had a thought pass through my head about putting some of that graphite lock lube stuff on the key, but since graphite is a conductor and I don't really know what's inside that ignition cylinder I have a sneaking suspicion that would be a bad idear.

Any comments, suggestions, etc?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 08:39 AM
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Try the graphite lube, but don't over do it. If that doesn't work, then probably the ignition key lock is worn. Not a big deal to change out, just need a steering wheel puller. If I remember correctly it is held in by a screwed pin. I've done a '79 Regal and '80 Olds and both were the same process.

Good luck.
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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 09:05 AM
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From: eville in
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Originally Posted by MILO
Try the graphite lube, but don't over do it. If that doesn't work, then probably the ignition key lock is worn. Not a big deal to change out, just need a steering wheel puller. If I remember correctly it is held in by a screwed pin. I've done a '79 Regal and '80 Olds and both were the same process.

Good luck.
lube goes a long way
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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 09:19 AM
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Just swap out your lock cylinder. It's an hour job start to finish if you have Jim Shea's Corvette FAQ instructions. I just did mine a couple weeks ago.
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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 09:35 AM
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Thanks for the quick responses guys. I didn't think there was anything in the way of electrical/electronic in the ignition cylinder like newer cars, but better safe than sorry.

I'll try the lube first, if that doesn't do the trick, ignition cylinder replacement it is!
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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Just swap out your lock cylinder. It's an hour job start to finish if you have Jim Shea's Corvette FAQ instructions. I just did mine a couple weeks ago.
Looks like alot of his stuff is from the service manual. I bought one for the 80 from Helm and it has pretty clear instructions on what to do.

1 question for that procedure... there's a reference to a "steering wheel puller" tool in the instructions... I assume something common can be used for this instead?

Thanks!



Edit: Found the ignition cylinder on Ecklers, obviously not hard to find!

Last edited by TheKomoman; Jul 16, 2004 at 10:41 AM.
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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
Looks like alot of his stuff is from the service manual. I bought one for the 80 from Helm and it has pretty clear instructions on what to do.
I dunno. He used to work for Saginaw steering I believe. And his instructions were exact ... right down to the last screw and the cancelling cam retainer which shattered just like he said it would. (btw, go ahead and order one of those now if you plan on pulling the column apart)

2 questions for that procedure... where can I buy the cylinder and there's a reference to a "steering wheel puller" tool in the instructions... I assume something common can be used for this instead?

Thanks!
Zip and Ecklers both stock the lock cylinder. But the same part was used in a bajillion GM vehicles of that era, so you could probably get it at most parts stores. It's ~$20.

You need a two hole puller. Most (3-hole) harmonic balancer pullers have one extra "tab" so that they can also be used to pull steering wheels. In fact, the one I used said "harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller" right on the package. You could fab one up if you had the means I suppose. You'd just need a thick hunk of stock, drill and tap two holes that match up with the pull holes on the wheel. Then drill and tap a big hole right in the center for the "push" bolt.

edit: correction, you wouldn't have to tap the two holes, just the one in the middle

Last edited by wcsinx; Jul 16, 2004 at 11:04 AM.
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