Replacing Power Brake Booster
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 15
From: Lusby MD
Replacing Power Brake Booster
I'm about the replace the Master Cyl on my 68 and am trying to decide if I should pick up a new booster too. Vettebrakes has a combination booster/master cyl package for a very reasonable price.
However....
I remember replacing the booster on my old 69 convertible, and it sucked! Even with the dash removed and steering column dropped it was a PITA to get to the bolts. Does anyone have a decent way to get to this sucker?
A while back, someone posted a link of a kit to replace power brakes with manual brakes. Maybe I just need to do that and save the world the hassle of ever having to replace the booster....
However....
I remember replacing the booster on my old 69 convertible, and it sucked! Even with the dash removed and steering column dropped it was a PITA to get to the bolts. Does anyone have a decent way to get to this sucker?
A while back, someone posted a link of a kit to replace power brakes with manual brakes. Maybe I just need to do that and save the world the hassle of ever having to replace the booster....
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,601
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco CA
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Schmucker
Just leave the one nut off that's really hard to get to so it'll be easier to change the next time. Check NAPA's price on a MC/Booster combo, I think it's cheaper than Vette brakes.
I wouldn't leave the nut off. You could use a regular nut with a lock washer and follow it up with another nut, that way you can spin them snug by hand and all you have to do is torque it. Wouldn't know anything about the power -> manual conversion though.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Originally Posted by Buffalo Dude
I wouldn't leave the nut off. You could use a regular nut with a lock washer and follow it up with another nut, that way you can spin them snug by hand and all you have to do is torque it. Wouldn't know anything about the power -> manual conversion though.
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Aurora CO
I will let you know in a day or two. We are changing from manual to Power. The first problem was that the holes were off verticaly by about 3/16". We have the booster in finaly and clevis conected and the bottpm two nuts on. We are going to sleep on it before we do the top two nuts.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,601
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco CA
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by wcsinx
My booster has held with 3 nuts for as long I've owned the car (~2.5 years) and no telling how much longer for the previous owner. It has never budged.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
With a wobble extension and a deep-well socket it's not THAT big a deal. You do have to be somewhat of a contortionist to get there, or hire the teenager next door to take them loose. The clevis is harder to do that the nuts IMHO.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Originally Posted by markdtn
With a wobble extension and a deep-well socket it's not THAT big a deal. You do have to be somewhat of a contortionist to get there, or hire the teenager next door to take them loose. The clevis is harder to do that the nuts IMHO.
Yeah, the clevis is another royal PITA. I tried to take it loose. Gave up ... ended up just yanking the booster with the rod still attached to the clevis then unscrewing the rod from the clevis through the hole in the firewall.
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Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Aurora CO
We just finished putting ours on. We did not have to take one off since this is an upgrade from manuals. But on the right side of the stearing column using a thin wall 3/8" deep well socket a u-joint and about a foot of extensins we were able to tighten the nut. On the left side I had to take out the clutch safty switch, only on screw, and the same socket configuration. If you took the clutch rod that goes through the floor off it would even be better.
