keep up the up date's 
more progress
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by NHvette
I take it that was aimed at me ?
Yeah - little to no progress here lately, but I did mix and pour 1640
pounds of concrete this past weekend. Sadly, that is only a 9'x7'
section of the patio around my 20'x40' pool.
I'll trade you half my chickens for one goat.
OK - I'm still ahead.
My chassis rolls on 4 wheels, and springs.
My engine (in chassis) starts with jumper cables and a screwdriver.
My nose is glued onto the rear clip.
Plus, I just got notice of my retroactive raise. It wasn't everything that
I expected, but it will get me going again soon. I will drive her before the
snow settles in.
On the flip side, your vette will be a whole other beast compared to mine.
She's gonna be a keeper !!
One thing I didn't do is reinforce the diff front mount.
OH - just noticed the bottom of your front crossmember is dented in.
You need the jack plate.
Yeah - little to no progress here lately, but I did mix and pour 1640
pounds of concrete this past weekend. Sadly, that is only a 9'x7'
section of the patio around my 20'x40' pool.
I'll trade you half my chickens for one goat.
OK - I'm still ahead.
My chassis rolls on 4 wheels, and springs.
My engine (in chassis) starts with jumper cables and a screwdriver.
My nose is glued onto the rear clip.
Plus, I just got notice of my retroactive raise. It wasn't everything that
I expected, but it will get me going again soon. I will drive her before the
snow settles in.
On the flip side, your vette will be a whole other beast compared to mine.
She's gonna be a keeper !!
One thing I didn't do is reinforce the diff front mount.
OH - just noticed the bottom of your front crossmember is dented in.
You need the jack plate.
The one gusset we are all ignoring is the one's on the motor mount. Even that mount should be tied back into the frame.
Anyway nice job
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
I did not forget the motor mounts 
I also did the thing most people forget also, plate over the huge hole that gives access to the P.St. ram mount brackets
I'm not going to deburr the ball joint plates since that would run the plating.
I also did the thing most people forget also, plate over the huge hole that gives access to the P.St. ram mount brackets
I'm not going to deburr the ball joint plates since that would run the plating.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I also did the thing most people forget also, plate over the huge hole that gives access to the P.St. ram mount brackets
Mine was plated years ago. I also went partway around the corner. This is a real weak spot on our frames.
I was out for a cruise tonight and just driving along at 55 in a 50 when a car came flying up behind me. I was going to turn off in another couple of hundred yards so i just held the 55, signalled, didn't slow down one little bit and took the turn at the 55 mph. Sure left that other young fellow. The car really sits flat on the turns but I notice the fuel slosh in the carbs cause the motor to cough on hard turns like that, not much but a little choking.
I also ran it up to 120 mph or 200 and it is oh so smooth.
I know you won't forget anything but I have to add it for others who might.
Mine was plated years ago. I also went partway around the corner. This is a real weak spot on our frames.
I was out for a cruise tonight and just driving along at 55 in a 50 when a car came flying up behind me. I was going to turn off in another couple of hundred yards so i just held the 55, signalled, didn't slow down one little bit and took the turn at the 55 mph. Sure left that other young fellow. The car really sits flat on the turns but I notice the fuel slosh in the carbs cause the motor to cough on hard turns like that, not much but a little choking.
I also ran it up to 120 mph or 200 and it is oh so smooth.
I know you won't forget anything but I have to add it for others who might.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Twin turbo your upper A arm mounts don't look normal. I don't know what that is in place of your shock?? Our upper shock mounts are more outboard from the mount and have a bridge completely over the spring pocket.
Your shock mount is not bridged and very close to the A arm mount.
I asked this before and never got an answer. Are you going to modify the inner upper A arm mounts? I would move them down and reward at least 3/8th inch back. This raises the roll center and increases the caster.
Your shock mount is not bridged and very close to the A arm mount.
I asked this before and never got an answer. Are you going to modify the inner upper A arm mounts? I would move them down and reward at least 3/8th inch back. This raises the roll center and increases the caster.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 0
From: largo florida
norval, when you say you should move the upper As down and rearward 3/8 of inch, you mean toward the rear of the car right? It doesnt seem like there is any room to move it rearward. Would you weld a box onto that part of the frame for the upper A arm? Could you drill your holes closer to the edge of the frame then drill some offset holes on the upper A cross shaft to effectively move the arm 3/8 rearward? Do you think polepositionrp.com or someone similar could modify the upper A's to move the balljoint mount 3/8 rearward? Like make one arm longer then the other? One last question... 
Why is the one side welded to the center section while the other side is just bolted on? Is there any reason to it?
Why is the one side welded to the center section while the other side is just bolted on? Is there any reason to it?
Last edited by lostpatrolman; Jul 25, 2004 at 11:17 PM.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Norval, the upper mounts are (still) completely stock. It is bridged, you can see it here:
I am going to move the upper arm cross-shaft down but not back because I already have a slight clearance issue w/ the turbo oil drain on the pass. side. The arms can be adjusted for caster but adjusting the sleeves fore/aft differently.
Lostpatrolman, the arm is welded there because it has to remain rigid. If you would have 2 bolted sides then your triangle would not be stable and could be moved.
You can move the upper amr to the rear, but I don't think you can manage 3/8th, there's not that much room since it still has to clear the upper arm mount through full travel.
I am going to move the upper arm cross-shaft down but not back because I already have a slight clearance issue w/ the turbo oil drain on the pass. side. The arms can be adjusted for caster but adjusting the sleeves fore/aft differently.
Lostpatrolman, the arm is welded there because it has to remain rigid. If you would have 2 bolted sides then your triangle would not be stable and could be moved.
You can move the upper amr to the rear, but I don't think you can manage 3/8th, there's not that much room since it still has to clear the upper arm mount through full travel.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,508
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by Freepop
Awesome work TT & NH
One question comes to mind, is it required that you paint over th POR?
One question comes to mind, is it required that you paint over th POR?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,052
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I'm not going to deburr the ball joint plates since that would run the plating.
that coating is just a chromate dip which is nothing special. (in fact it is a banned process in Europe) once you attach fasteners to it, it will scratch off. if you rework it, you can easily get it finished.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
You mean the process where the zinc oxide top layer of plating is converted into a chromate conversion layer by dipping? It's called yellow chromate here and it's not banned, there's a company very close to me that does it (either blue or yellow/gold). That stuiff won't scratch off that easily.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
TT if I ever did a frame off I could only hope that my suspension looks as good as yours. Just applying POR-15 over the bumpy rust it still came out shiny and smooth. With your sandblasted/ scrubbed suspension it probably looks like glass in person.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
norval, when you say you should move the upper As down and rearward 3/8 of inch, you mean toward the rear of the car right? It doesnt seem like there is any room to move it rearward
The camaro guys cut the inner A arm mounts off and replace with a completley different plate. This plate has the mounting stud holes mounted lower and up to 1/2 inch back towards the rear.
This has the same affect as longer spindles and increases the caster.
To do this we could cut our existing mount off, cut a piece out of it 1/2 -3/4 inch and weld it back on but relocating it rearward.
I can't see the problem with this if the car body is off or even the motor is removed. If I pull my motor again I will give this a try. Done with care you could never notice the difference looking at it.
I lack a spreader bar and would really like to fabricate something to mount one. I feel they are a good addition.
Those tubular A arms bother me. I could easily fabricate my own but to me they are not rigid enough on the flat plane.
The camaro guys cut the inner A arm mounts off and replace with a completley different plate. This plate has the mounting stud holes mounted lower and up to 1/2 inch back towards the rear.
This has the same affect as longer spindles and increases the caster.
To do this we could cut our existing mount off, cut a piece out of it 1/2 -3/4 inch and weld it back on but relocating it rearward.
I can't see the problem with this if the car body is off or even the motor is removed. If I pull my motor again I will give this a try. Done with care you could never notice the difference looking at it.
I lack a spreader bar and would really like to fabricate something to mount one. I feel they are a good addition.
Those tubular A arms bother me. I could easily fabricate my own but to me they are not rigid enough on the flat plane.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 1
From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
I must say twin turbo. Except for some minor differences, you are doing everything I want to do.
I love reading about your car. Keep it up.
I love reading about your car. Keep it up.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Norval, the upper mounts are (still) completely stock. It is bridged, you can see it here...
