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Manually Rasing a Power Window

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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 11:12 PM
  #1  
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From: Christiansburg VA
Default Manually Rasing a Power Window

My '73 passenger window (powered) won't go back up. I can't for the life of me figure out the best way to raise it manually while I order parts / troubleshoot the problem. My manuals don't seem to shed much light on this matter either. I hope someone here can help!

As for the actual problem, just FYI: the window will go down just fine (heh) and in the down position I can hear the "click" and attempt of the motor when I push the window "button" to the window down position, but when I try to raise it - I hear nothing and nothing happens.

Thanks in advance!!!
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 11:35 PM
  #2  
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From: FRANKLIN GA
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My drivers side window did the same thing, I sprayed the connecter down with pb blaster and tapped the motor with a hammer (couldn't hurt I was gonna order a new one anyway) and the thing started working and has worked ever since. Might be worth a try.
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 11:55 PM
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From: johnston ri
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I hope it doesnt come to my suggestion,but nothing I did would work, so if I'm remembering correctly ,I exposed the gears on the motor(after finding the motor was definitely N.G.) by removing the small bolts and cover and turning the gears a little at the time with a screwdriver.Make sure you have tried all other suggestions,like checking you have voltage in the "raise"circuit first.It sounds like you may or may not have voltage from your description.I'm not really sure how I exposed the gears because it was a while ago but somehow I partially disassembled the motor while it was still in the door,but it wasnt pretty.
Hope I helped, Jules
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 03:38 AM
  #4  
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Default Power window curse

My windows stopped working (in the up position). How could it be the switches on the console if neither one will work. Not the fuse. I am a new guy and totally ignorant of on-line forum etiquette so I'll apologize in advance for being a geek. I am, however, trainable.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 08:23 AM
  #5  
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From: Christiansburg VA
Default Good Feedback!

Thanks for the feedback so far... I hope to dig into this a little more this weekend. As I said, the motor will take the window down, just not up (it doesn't even appear to try). However... I do have another question... there is a set of wires coming from the body through the door to the "rear" of the window motor - it has a connector plug on it. When I hook my multi-meter to this connector, I get nothing at all (when operating the window switch) but yet, I still hear the motor try when I try the "down" position. Just curious if I am losing my mind or not I haven't taken apart the "good door" to test the wires on that side...

82collectorshark:
Did you have to take the lock arms and full inner door plate (the metal door "wall" behind the interior / attractive piece) off, or were you able to get the window back up and do everything through the hole were the motor is visible?

Thanks again!!!
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 05:03 PM
  #6  
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From: johnston ri
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I have an 82 and I'm not sure if its the same as yours.I can only take a small access panel off at the bottom of the door and was able to do everthing through there.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 07:26 PM
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From: Burlington Ontario
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[QUOTE=JedTheHead]Thanks for the feedback so far... I hope to dig into this a little more this weekend. As I said, the motor will take the window down, just not up (it doesn't even appear to try). However... I do have another question... there is a set of wires coming from the body through the door to the "rear" of the window motor - it has a connector plug on it. When I hook my multi-meter to this connector, I get nothing at all (when operating the window switch) but yet, I still hear the motor try when I try the "down" position. Just curious if I am losing my mind or not I haven't taken apart the "good door" to test the wires on that side...
[B]

If you have the door panel off, diconect the wires from the window motor and use a jumper wire to appy 12 volt to either terminal on the motor. If the motor is good you will see it raise or lower. The motor is fairly easy to get out, just a bit of a pain to get in the tight spot.
Could be the wiring or bad ground, but if like you said that it would go down OK then it could be a bad switch also.
Good luck
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 09:49 AM
  #8  
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From: Christiansburg VA
Default Fixed at no cost! - Thanks Again

Thanks again for everyone's posts!!! I was able to fix this issue with out buying anything (that is always sweet!).

Turns out, after removing the door cover and getting to the back of the motor, I had voltage going down, but not going up. I then turned to the switch where I found corrosion on the contacts and cleaned that up. I was back in business, but after playing a little while I realized the housing that holds the switch into the center console was allowing the switch to push through a little and lose further contact with the, well, contacts. All said in done, a little corrosion cleaning and a few hidden cable ties, and all is well!

Thanks again to everyone....

Now on to my scraping brakes!
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