heater core replacement


Becareful as you take out the old vent ductwork not to break it. Good time to replace heater box seals too. Found mine had none. Bubba left'm out from previous work and hot engine comp air was mixing right in with the vent/AC air into the p-comp.
Used plastic repair and washers to repair broken plastic ears on htr box (for the holding screws). Remember to adjust diverter control cable before covering it up - easy to do with center console control - just need to verify or adjust until full shut when required.Hope this can help. cardo0
You may also want to make note before removing stuff if your climate control system works properly because once you remove ductwork and stuff, you can troubleshoot plenum doors and vacuum lines that lead to them and back to the controls. As you remove, pay careful attention on what goes where...they might be color coordinated but I don't recall.


Last edited by Paul L; Aug 8, 2004 at 08:43 AM.





Okay I can see that '79 htr core is in a entirely different location than on my '74. I also see a non-AC shark has some nice advantages and I would really like to own a convert thats non-AC. But at least now Mr. Bullet you have the right info to make the job easier. Good luck. cardo0 Paul do you use a sharp blade to cut the seal from the engine side? and what did you use to reseal it? Keep in mind this is the original heater core in the car.
Thanks for you help!
Last edited by 79 Bullet; Aug 8, 2004 at 11:30 PM.
In a shark you get plenty of heat through the footwells. Besides, the coolant in an unused heater core becomes corrosive due to stagnation and any air entrapment. Corrosion leads to leaks, leaks to messy passenger carpets, messy carpets lead to angry owners - this is the way of the dark side.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
tom...
The A/C heater core configuration and installation is shown here....
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/juli...tCore_orig.htm
The only seal I ran into was around the snouts.

For the fan/blower housing I just cleaned off the old goop and used black silicone sealant.

This is the almost finished product. I replaced the heater hoses and ring clamps. The hose bracket on the fan housing was on order when the pics were taken and it was eventually replaced as well.
Last edited by Paul L; Aug 9, 2004 at 08:54 AM.










PS: how much was the GM core?
mjager
I looked at what it would have taken to do it from the passenger compartment and decided that I didn't want to take a week to do it. From the engine side it took an hour.
Not having AC sucks, but yet its pretty cool too.
Flood, why did you have a hard time getting it in. From Paul's pics and the cover out of the way it looks like easy sailing?
First removed engine side cover there were six 7/16" nuts.
next removed clip shown below with needle nose pliers.
[IMG]
[/IMG] I then used the claw of a hammer to remove the heater core as Paul shows earlier.
then remove two bolts to remove clip from tube side of heater core
[IMG]
[/IMG] Go to the inside of the car and remove both seats,side covers,glove box, vent tube under glove box that is connected with one wing nut, center console and gauge cluster. This should not take more than 30 minutes.It will look like this
[IMG]
[/IMG] The above step sounds difficlut but is very easy. If you do a search there is a post with detailed instructions. This then allows you easy access to the heater core once you push back the heater box
[IMG]
[/IMG] put new heater core in from engine side. Put on two clips. I bought some dum dum which is a putty that GM used at the factory that is available at most parts stores it comes in ribbons that you apply very easily as a matter of fact my 7 year old did this in the morning.
and then re-assemble.
Don't forget to test for leaks before you put everything back together.
Following is an additional photo of the seal that fits around the neck of the heater core.[IMG]
[/IMG] A few notes I did not have to disconnect and vacuum lines or cables.
The replacement GM core was 3/16" taller than the original.











