Burning oil - help!!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Long Island NY
Originally Posted by helix60
Rolm,
I've rebuilt well over 50 CSB and more than 15 BBs at my home. Most were for other people friends, family and ocasionaly for pay. Not one has ever been brought back for any major problem. Occasionaly one stops by to check and tune but that is about it. If you can't rebuild your own engine, then that is your problem. But there are many competent people both here on this forum and in real life that can do it.
And I'm sure it was said more than 1000 times that the world was flat, but guess what they were wrong too.
Regards,
Heli
I've rebuilt well over 50 CSB and more than 15 BBs at my home. Most were for other people friends, family and ocasionaly for pay. Not one has ever been brought back for any major problem. Occasionaly one stops by to check and tune but that is about it. If you can't rebuild your own engine, then that is your problem. But there are many competent people both here on this forum and in real life that can do it.
And I'm sure it was said more than 1000 times that the world was flat, but guess what they were wrong too.
Regards,
Heli
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Long Island NY
Originally Posted by MotorHead
Maybe I should pull the 406ci I just built in my basement last winter something is wrong when I hit the gas at 50mph my 295/50/15's spin on the back, this cannot be good 
Like to hear if you can get more then a few thousand miles before you need to tear into again and again and **************
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,493
Likes: 6
From: Bloomington MN
Cruise-In II Veteran
Rolm, have you ever heard of machine shops?
All it takes is a mic set, some feeler guages, a good rebuild kit, a machine shop to do the machining, and some brains to rebuild a motor....in your garage
All it takes is a mic set, some feeler guages, a good rebuild kit, a machine shop to do the machining, and some brains to rebuild a motor....in your garage
Last edited by A C; Aug 12, 2004 at 08:44 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,575
Likes: 1
From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Originally Posted by Rolm
You said it best "Not one has ever been brought back for any major problem" Like I said you can not rebuild an engine at home. I bet your engines did not last more then a few weeks or months with-out leaking or burning oil or this and that going wrong. So why did you rebuild 50 engines or was it you rebuilt the same 2 engines over and over again
Originally Posted by Rolm
Like to hear if you can get more then a few thousand miles before you need to tear into again and again and **************
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You have to have a little brain power going for you to able to rebuild at home, not alot but enough to able to read a book and use measuring tools I can see how someone would think it is not possilble to do at home lacking these skills.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,575
Likes: 1
From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Originally Posted by MotorHead
You have to have a little brain power going for you to able to rebuild at home, not alot but enough to able to read a book and use measuring tools I can see how someone would think it is not possilble to do at home lacking these skills.
Advanced
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Chippewa Lake Ohio
Originally Posted by Rolm
You said it best "Not one has ever been brought back for any major problem" Like I said you can not rebuild an engine at home. I bet your engines did not last more then a few weeks or months with-out leaking or burning oil or this and that going wrong. So why did you rebuild 50 engines or was it you rebuilt the same 2 engines over and over again
Rolm,
You are so full of &%^&*%^&^* it's pit-a-full. As a matter of fact all of the engines but one are still running. The one that isn't is because the car was wrecked. And not one of the engines was rebuilt more than once, nor did they leak oil as you suggested. You are just a blowhard troll. You wanted to get under my skin some, and I'll admit you did but not quite the way you wanted to. All this shows is what an idiot you really are.
When you grow up, then we'll let you play with the big boys. Until then you'll have to stay in the toddler playground.
Regards,
Heli
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,507
Likes: 1,514
From: Little Rock AR
Originally Posted by SteveG75
Here is the situation:
Engine was re-ringed and the heads had new springs/seals installed about 250 miles ago. Right now, I am using Castrol GTX 10W30, standard pump, getting 60 psi cold idle, 25 psi hot idle, and burning approximately a quart every 250 miles (based on guess of rate of lowering of oil level).
Blue puff of smoke when you tap the gas (can't remember if this is rings or seals). Also, when I pull the valve covers, I noticed that several seals had moved up the stems and were no longer sitting on the valve guides. These are the Crane seals that came in the kit for the hyd-roller cam. However, it seems to be puffing out both sides intermittently and the seals on the driver's side look fine. Intake gasket has been replaced and reinstalled using that nasty red Permatex goop (for lack of a better term) around the intake ports.
This is starting to bug me since it was using a 1/2 quart every 3000 miles before. Any suggestions / ideas would be appreciated. Any idea on how much it would cost to replace the seals (I know it can be done with the heads on).
PS. Car goes to body shop this week so any solution will have to wait.
Engine was re-ringed and the heads had new springs/seals installed about 250 miles ago. Right now, I am using Castrol GTX 10W30, standard pump, getting 60 psi cold idle, 25 psi hot idle, and burning approximately a quart every 250 miles (based on guess of rate of lowering of oil level).
Blue puff of smoke when you tap the gas (can't remember if this is rings or seals). Also, when I pull the valve covers, I noticed that several seals had moved up the stems and were no longer sitting on the valve guides. These are the Crane seals that came in the kit for the hyd-roller cam. However, it seems to be puffing out both sides intermittently and the seals on the driver's side look fine. Intake gasket has been replaced and reinstalled using that nasty red Permatex goop (for lack of a better term) around the intake ports.
This is starting to bug me since it was using a 1/2 quart every 3000 miles before. Any suggestions / ideas would be appreciated. Any idea on how much it would cost to replace the seals (I know it can be done with the heads on).
PS. Car goes to body shop this week so any solution will have to wait.
I hope you used Permatex "High Tack" rather than Permatex RTV "gasket in a tube" silicone. The silicone RTV is not good to use around intake ports as the gasoline will disolve it. Intake gasket leaks can cause high oil consumption and are more common than you would imagine.
The Crane teflon valve seals require that the valve guide boss be cut down to the proper diameter to accept the seal. You can not just slap them on there. They can come off even if the head has been properly machined as yours did so I do not like them in general. They also may have been hammered if the cam lift is too high and the underside of the retainer may have hit the top of the seal. Been there, done that once too. You can take them off and inspect them for that. Check the clearance at assembly.
Just a few things that come to mind.
-Mark.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,052
Likes: 678
From: FL
Mark,
Thats the stuff, Permatex High Tack. Love trying to clean it up. Guide was cut down by the machine shop. Cam lift should be OK (.488/.509). I am going to live with it till the winter and then I'll probably swap the Crane seals for a new set of the Edelbrock ones. As I understand it, it is a preety simple swap if you bring each piston to TDC in turn and use a compressed air source to hold the valves up.
Thats the stuff, Permatex High Tack. Love trying to clean it up. Guide was cut down by the machine shop. Cam lift should be OK (.488/.509). I am going to live with it till the winter and then I'll probably swap the Crane seals for a new set of the Edelbrock ones. As I understand it, it is a preety simple swap if you bring each piston to TDC in turn and use a compressed air source to hold the valves up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,507
Likes: 1,514
From: Little Rock AR
Steve,
I do not like the compressed air method myself. If the valve comes off the seat for any reason, it might drop in.
I use the "clothesline in the sparkplug hole" method. You feed in a length of clothesline and bring the piston up to the top while you change that cylinder's seals then repeat for the other cylinders. A little more fool-proof and does not require an air compressor.
-Mark.
I do not like the compressed air method myself. If the valve comes off the seat for any reason, it might drop in.
I use the "clothesline in the sparkplug hole" method. You feed in a length of clothesline and bring the piston up to the top while you change that cylinder's seals then repeat for the other cylinders. A little more fool-proof and does not require an air compressor.
-Mark.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 11
From: Schaumburg IL
Deja vu on Rebuilds
Originally Posted by Rolm
I have said this a 1000's times you can not rebuild an engine at home.
Had the short block built at a "pro shop" Got the pieces together and damn if did not smoke right away. Took it back to the "pro shop" and they pulled the entire engine, disassembled totally, mic'ed all parts, put different rings in, used a different intake gasket type and said they see nothing that will cause oil burning or puffing.
Ran the car for about 300 miles and the damn thing started puffing blue when you got on it or reved it hard.
This makes one rethink how much I like this hobby - ready to take on building bird houses.
All suggestions are welcome.
PS - even having it built is no guarantee.
Advanced
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Chippewa Lake Ohio
Originally Posted by Bob in Dallas
Just click on Rolm's name and display his public profile. Add him to your ignore list and you won't be bothered by his baiting BS aagain.Done... Thanks
Heli
