Burning oil - help!!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: FL
Burning oil - help!!
Here is the situation:
Engine was re-ringed and the heads had new springs/seals installed about 250 miles ago. Right now, I am using Castrol GTX 10W30, standard pump, getting 60 psi cold idle, 25 psi hot idle, and burning approximately a quart every 250 miles (based on guess of rate of lowering of oil level).
Blue puff of smoke when you tap the gas (can't remember if this is rings or seals). Also, when I pull the valve covers, I noticed that several seals had moved up the stems and were no longer sitting on the valve guides. These are the Crane seals that came in the kit for the hyd-roller cam. However, it seems to be puffing out both sides intermittently and the seals on the driver's side look fine. Intake gasket has been replaced and reinstalled using that nasty red Permatex goop (for lack of a better term) around the intake ports.
This is starting to bug me since it was using a 1/2 quart every 3000 miles before. Any suggestions / ideas would be appreciated. Any idea on how much it would cost to replace the seals (I know it can be done with the heads on).
PS. Car goes to body shop this week so any solution will have to wait.
Engine was re-ringed and the heads had new springs/seals installed about 250 miles ago. Right now, I am using Castrol GTX 10W30, standard pump, getting 60 psi cold idle, 25 psi hot idle, and burning approximately a quart every 250 miles (based on guess of rate of lowering of oil level).
Blue puff of smoke when you tap the gas (can't remember if this is rings or seals). Also, when I pull the valve covers, I noticed that several seals had moved up the stems and were no longer sitting on the valve guides. These are the Crane seals that came in the kit for the hyd-roller cam. However, it seems to be puffing out both sides intermittently and the seals on the driver's side look fine. Intake gasket has been replaced and reinstalled using that nasty red Permatex goop (for lack of a better term) around the intake ports.
This is starting to bug me since it was using a 1/2 quart every 3000 miles before. Any suggestions / ideas would be appreciated. Any idea on how much it would cost to replace the seals (I know it can be done with the heads on).
PS. Car goes to body shop this week so any solution will have to wait.
Last edited by SteveG75; Aug 10, 2004 at 12:34 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 1
From: Sodertalje/Sweden
Originally Posted by SteveG75
when I pull the valve covers, I notice that several sealshave moved up the stems and are no longer sitting on the valve guides. These are the Crane seals that came in the kit for the hyd-roller cam. .
Thread Starter
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From: FL
Originally Posted by BB wowbagger
Is it the Teflon or the "old school" umbrella type of seals?
Only about 5-6000 miles on heads before the rebuild.
Last edited by SteveG75; Aug 10, 2004 at 12:33 PM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 560
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From: Mooresville NC
The web site for the valve stem seals state that machining is required. I can only assume they mean that the head needs to be "cleaned" up so the seals can grab the head and wipe the valve clean of oil and therefore not ride up and down on the valve. Do you know for sure this was done. I doubt you could do this with the head on the engine. The seals do not appear to be the umbrella tye mentioned by BB wowbagger, these type would float up and down with the valve.
BTW when the rings were changed were the bores rehoned? It usually takes about 1000 miles of easy driving for the rings to really break in and may use a little oil during this time. After a rebuild I usually change the oil after the initial break in, then again after 500 and 1000 miles, then every 3000 miles.
BTW when the rings were changed were the bores rehoned? It usually takes about 1000 miles of easy driving for the rings to really break in and may use a little oil during this time. After a rebuild I usually change the oil after the initial break in, then again after 500 and 1000 miles, then every 3000 miles.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: FL
Originally Posted by Rolm
I have said this a 1000's times you can not rebuild an engine at home.
What made you come to this conclusion. I pulled the engine with a wiped cam and disassembled it to a short block. Short block was rebuilt and reassembled by a highly regarded local amchine shop. They also cleaned the heads and installed all the Crane Cams components for me. I then installed the roller cam and bolted the heads, oil pump, and pan on. That was the extent of the "home rebuild".
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Le Mans Master
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From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Originally Posted by johns73
Rolm that's "BS" I have built 11 motors at "HOME" He is asking for some advise not worthless remarks.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: FL
Originally Posted by MILO
The web site for the valve stem seals state that machining is required. I can only assume they mean that the head needs to be "cleaned" up so the seals can grab the head and wipe the valve clean of oil and therefore not ride up and down on the valve. Do you know for sure this was done. I doubt you could do this with the head on the engine. The seals do not appear to be the umbrella tye mentioned by BB wowbagger, these type would float up and down with the valve.
BTW when the rings were changed were the bores rehoned? It usually takes about 1000 miles of easy driving for the rings to really break in and may use a little oil during this time. After a rebuild I usually change the oil after the initial break in, then again after 500 and 1000 miles, then every 3000 miles.
BTW when the rings were changed were the bores rehoned? It usually takes about 1000 miles of easy driving for the rings to really break in and may use a little oil during this time. After a rebuild I usually change the oil after the initial break in, then again after 500 and 1000 miles, then every 3000 miles.
I think I will drive it for now when it gets out of the body shop and then worry about this over the winter. After all, oil is cheap (relative to usage) compared to gas.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 198
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From: Long Island NY
Originally Posted by johns73
Rolm that's "BS" I have built 11 motors at "HOME" He is asking for some advise not worthless remarks.
Advanced
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 96
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From: Chippewa Lake Ohio
Originally Posted by Rolm
I have said this a 1000's times you can not rebuild an engine at home.
Rolm,
I've rebuilt well over 50 CSB and more than 15 BBs at my home. Most were for other people friends, family and ocasionaly for pay. Not one has ever been brought back for any major problem. Occasionaly one stops by to check and tune but that is about it. If you can't rebuild your own engine, then that is your problem. But there are many competent people both here on this forum and in real life that can do it.
And I'm sure it was said more than 1000 times that the world was flat, but guess what they were wrong too.
Regards,
Heli
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
The machining needed is that the guides have to be cut down to whatever diameter they specify. If the seals were on there at one point, this machining must have been done as otherwise the seals won't install.
As for why they came off, i'm wondering if maybe you're running double or triple springs with the inner spring so small in diameter that it grabbed the seal?
As for why they came off, i'm wondering if maybe you're running double or triple springs with the inner spring so small in diameter that it grabbed the seal?
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by Rolm
I have said this a 1000's times you can not rebuild an engine at home.
