GoodDr

About three weeks ago I blew up my '74 L-82 engine. I have it all stripped down and found a crack in the side of a cylinder wall.

Today I went to talk to a good local machine shop about a resleeve rebuild.

He said a couple of things that seemed a little odd:

* If my crankshaft is too far gone to be repaired he said I would need a specific crank - Why wouldn't just any other 350 crank be good?

* Same for connecting rods.

(I have a '77 350 engine I can take a good crank/rods from.)

*Also if my block is too far gone, is it worth it to put back a L-82 block. He has one he could sell me (not sure on year or cost).

Thanks.

62fuelie

The original L82 is only of interest to collectors, and the 74 is only beginning to become of interest to collectors. There is no reason your original block can't be sleeved and perform just as good as new. All new LS1/6 engines have 8 sleeved cylinders in them. Now the question is: is it the right thing to do economically? Any 350 block (pre 87?)will work, more or less. As to the crank and rods, I suspect the L82 may have had a steel crank and heavy duty rods. Any generic 350 crank and rods (pre 87?)would fit and work, but wouldn't necessarily be as strong as the original.

You can get a pretty good crate engine for less than the rebuild cost, but there are possible issues such as Vortec heads, and possibly hood clearance issues, since the Vortec heads limit manifold selection.

Whether you decide to rebuild the original engine, or put it on the shelf for a future owner, for sure don't throw it away.

68BLUEVETTE

I believethat if the block needs to be sleeved then they have to deck the block, so all concerns if it was numbers matching go out the door, so you may find it easier / better to go with a replacement block.

billlambeer

The crank and rods should work for your block, from a 77..should be no prob. If you havent worked with these guys personally, they might have seen you coming, as i have had this happen to me many a times, since i dont exactly look like a kid who works on cars much, cuz i pretty much live two lives, the car life, and then the private college life, they try to take advantage around my area since most kids are rich and dont care where there money goes.. Anyways i would get some clarification on the crank and rods, and ask him why, and if your 77 stuff would work, since it should. And if things sound good to you, and you are satisfied by his reasoning, i would pursue looking at how much it would cost to resleeve compared to a new block, this is because i dont think you would want to work with liars. But, having matching numbers can raise the price of your car quite a bit, so that is something to consider, especially in an l-82, but if you are not considering selling this car, well then its all what you want! Hope this may help, i know it seems all common sense, so sorry if i just wasted your time reading it!

page62

An L82 block isn't special in any particular way. It has 4-bolt mains instead of the base engine 2-bolts, but that's about it.

If I were you, I'd go back to that shop wearing my hip waders, and make sure you bring your filter with you, too!!!

stingr69

First, find a new shop.

Then, have the block sleeved and deck the numbers off after taking careful pictures of the stampings. The date code on the back of the block will still be there so these things will help document the engine. Rebuild what you have and use parts from the other engine if needed.

That is what I would do.

-Mark.

nhlgopens

My .02 - mothball the L-82 for a later time. Build the engine that you want from a crate. When (if) in the future you can rebuild the L-82 and have available for the matching numbers thing for value.

LemansBlue68

1) A good machine shop can re-sleeve your bad cylinder and make a clean up cut on the deck without taking off your numbers if you're concerned about that.

2) Any 350 crank that is compatible with a 2 piece rear seal (pre- 87) should work. Your '74 probably has a cast iron crank so swapping in another CI crank should be no big deal. You could even look in to an Eagle or Scat cast steel crank. The prices on these are very reasonable and may very well be more cost effective than having your existing crank re-ground.

3) Make DARN sure that the rest of your block is crack free before you invest any money in it. You may find that more than just your cylinder liner is cracked.

stingr69

If you have the block fixed, you do not have to store it. One less very heavy greasy thing to deal with in the garage. Space is worth something.

If the crank is shot and it needs a bore job anyway, now is the time to stroke it. 383 is just what the Dr. ordered for a C3. We need all the help we can get if we are to represent, YO!
I would have considered doing it to my car but the rest of the short block was too nice inside to just scrap forged factory bottom end stuff. If the bores are shot, you need pistons anyway so you might as well do it up right. There is a cost difference in the crank swap but not a lot compared to what the performance increase you get.

If money is realy hard to find, just stay with the cast 350 crank and drive on but the 383 is realy worth it if you can swing it.

-Mark.