Differential Crossmembeer Removal
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Differential Crossmembeer Removal
I removed my trailing arms today, thanks to the video I purchased from Van Steel. My 1968 Corvette is a Southern Californai car and has never been exposed to salt. Also, thanks to the cheap cork gaskets in the original engine valve covers and crank case cover, the engine leaked oil and has generously oil coated everything underneath the car. The combination of a salt free SoCal environment and an oil spray means that my suspension is pretty rust free. I had no trouble taking out the shock mount strut and the trailing arm bols. When I removed them, they looked almost like new...no rust or corrision. I was really relieved, because I've had some home car repairs turn to disaster. From all the stories I've heard about trailing bolts I thought that worst case I'd have to cut them out. Now....how do I get the differential crossmount out. The differential is free and is only attached to the crossmember. I've loosen the bolts at the crossmember, actually removed them also and then replaced them, now when I've hammered the crossmember or used a crowbar, it doesn;'t move. How do I get it out? I'm waiting for advise before I really hit it with a hammer or really put a lot of pressure with a crowbar. Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 0
From: largo florida
Put the 2 bolts back in and thread them up until they are about half an inch from being finger tight. Then get the longest crow bar you can find and start jumping on it. Do one side at a time. After both sides are popped loose, take the bolts out. Then lower the crossmember the rest of the way. If the bolts are not there, then the first side that breaks loose will fall far down, ****, and jamb the crossmember. I used a crowbar, cut the hook end off of it, then slid a fence post over the strait crowbar to get the extra leverage.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by lostpatrolman
Put the 2 bolts back in and thread them up until they are about half an inch from being finger tight. Then get the longest crow bar you can find and start jumping on it. Do one side at a time. After both sides are popped loose, take the bolts out. Then lower the crossmember the rest of the way. If the bolts are not there, then the first side that breaks loose will fall far down, ****, and jamb the crossmember. I used a crowbar, cut the hook end off of it, then slid a fence post over the strait crowbar to get the extra leverage.
Loosen the bolts like lostpatrolman said but put one chissel in the front between the frame and crossmember and one behind using them like a pickle fork then start hitting one then the other. Because of their taper they pry the crossmember down out of the cups with no chance of slipping and scratching the paint.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
I used the crowbar method to get mine off. I wasn't sure how big of a bar to get but I was told the bigger the better, so I got a 36". With that type of leverage it came off very easily. The longer meant I did not have to apply as much force on it at my end. I'm sure I could have done it with an 18" of 24" bar.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I don't agree with the crow bar. You are asking to slip and ruin the paint. A big gear puller works great but if not two large chissels.
Loosen the bolts like lostpatrolman said but put one chissel in the front between the frame and crossmember and one behind using them like a pickle fork then start hitting one then the other. Because of their taper they pry the crossmember down out of the cups with no chance of slipping and scratching the paint.
Loosen the bolts like lostpatrolman said but put one chissel in the front between the frame and crossmember and one behind using them like a pickle fork then start hitting one then the other. Because of their taper they pry the crossmember down out of the cups with no chance of slipping and scratching the paint.
I've never had this problem before. If you wedge the bar inbetween the frame and the cross member and push down, I don't see how you could mess up any paint. You pushing down and the only way anything is moving is down. You have a 25" or 2'1" gap in the wheel well if you measure where the xmember is bolted up to. Just my .02
