Is caliper replacement easy?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,906
Likes: 0
From: Berlin
Is caliper replacement easy?
I replaced my brake pads today, and found that some of the caliper pistons don't seem to be sealing very well anymore. Also, the pistons on one of the calipers didn't want to retract. My calipers look they were lifted out of the ocean anyways, so I figure I should replace them. Is this easy to do without any special tools? The most complicated thing I've ever done to the car was changing the pads 
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
In my opinion, this is a pretty easy project. The more difficult parts are...
1) You will need a pretty stout (long handled) socket (or a pipe over the handle) to get the two bolts that hold the calipers on if this is the first time they are being removed. I use a 6-point socket from an air hammer so I don't strip the bolt heads. There isn't anything special here - it just needs to be big enough...I use a 1/2 inch drive.
2) Assembly is easy, but many people get stuck on bleeding them when you are done. I got a set of the check-valve bleeder screws so I could bleed them single-handedly.
3) For 10 bucks a side, I'd also have a shop turn the rotors while you are at it...
Good luck -
1) You will need a pretty stout (long handled) socket (or a pipe over the handle) to get the two bolts that hold the calipers on if this is the first time they are being removed. I use a 6-point socket from an air hammer so I don't strip the bolt heads. There isn't anything special here - it just needs to be big enough...I use a 1/2 inch drive.
2) Assembly is easy, but many people get stuck on bleeding them when you are done. I got a set of the check-valve bleeder screws so I could bleed them single-handedly.
3) For 10 bucks a side, I'd also have a shop turn the rotors while you are at it...
Good luck -
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,201
Likes: 0
From: Clifton Park NY
Originally Posted by aharte
Ok, great. I have the speedbleeder screws already actually. I think I remember reading that there is a special bleeding procedure for when the MC is run dry. Is this correct?
Replacing the calipers isn't difficult. As mentioned above, the main potential problem is frozen bolts. Start soaking them with Kroil or something like that in advance...
Hope this helps...
-Pedro
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,052
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From: Vancouver BC, Canada
when installing new calipers, pre fill them via gravity before connecting to the hard lines. this 'wets' the inner surfaces and can save hours of bleeding confusion/frustration. i wonder why more people don't do this...
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,593
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From: Mobile AL
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Turbo-Jet
when installing new calipers, pre fill them via gravity before connecting to the hard lines. this 'wets' the inner surfaces and can save hours of bleeding confusion/frustration. i wonder why more people don't do this...
...but I would not put vise grips on my brake hoses. Your life depends on those hoses and I would not do anything to weaken them. Best bet is to get a baggie and stick the end of the hose into it, tie off tightly with rubber band; you won't lose much fluid. Also, leave the lid on the master cylinder. That will create a bit of a vacuum and retard the flow of fluid from the lines.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 888
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From: Angola IN
CI 5-6-7-8-9 Veteran
Cruise-In 7 Car Show Winner
Why you are at it, you should replace your front brake lines with some new ones, if your are original and worn. Go with the HD braded SS if you can afford them.
Frank
Frank
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
if you are doing the front calipers, have someone help you hold them while you thread the line into the caliper ...unless you got some beefy set of guns on ya cuz holding-.....wait a minute, NOW i know why mine were heavy! they were Steel Sleaved!!! damn.... 
ok well have someone help you anyways cuz trying to twist the line on while holding a 20 to 30Lb caliper isnt fun, especially since the threads are really fine. twist the brake line up in the opposite direction it will be threaded on and then it will slowly unwind while you thread it on. sounds easy eh? just make sure you have a very thick wall you can put your hand through when u get mad cuz you will...i had concrete...not so forgiving 
ok well have someone help you anyways cuz trying to twist the line on while holding a 20 to 30Lb caliper isnt fun, especially since the threads are really fine. twist the brake line up in the opposite direction it will be threaded on and then it will slowly unwind while you thread it on. sounds easy eh? just make sure you have a very thick wall you can put your hand through when u get mad cuz you will...i had concrete...not so forgiving
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
On a related topic... I could use some hints on installing the pads. I just replaced the upper & lower control arms and had removed the calipers and rotors as part of the process. WOW was getting the pistons retracted to re-install the pads a pain! Admittedly I am a novice but even with a buddy's help it was a serious pain.
I thought I saw mention somewhere that maybe syringing some fluid from the MC to provide some relief might be the way to go?
I thought I saw mention somewhere that maybe syringing some fluid from the MC to provide some relief might be the way to go?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 98
From: Ontario
Rebuild them.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/joe...ructions.shtml
Thanks EdT. Simple job and the Raybestos seals did the trick. One of the old, inner seals had failed and developed a minor leak. I did a cruise evening today and all is well. One piston (of four) has some minor corrosion but those SS sleeves are as smooth as a baby's bum with talcum powder. I suspect another 10 years is in order.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/joe...ructions.shtml
Thanks EdT. Simple job and the Raybestos seals did the trick. One of the old, inner seals had failed and developed a minor leak. I did a cruise evening today and all is well. One piston (of four) has some minor corrosion but those SS sleeves are as smooth as a baby's bum with talcum powder. I suspect another 10 years is in order.
Last edited by Paul L; Aug 25, 2004 at 10:53 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 17,102
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From: Fair Oaks, OK
To me, on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being easiest and 10 being a 10 case of beer minimum, this job is a 2. Just be careful to use good wrenches on the brake lines so you don't round them off.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 2,485
From: Buckeye, AZ
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
Make sure you follow the GM shop manual bleeding sequence; it is different than most cars. Addtionally while you have the calipers off you may want to change the hoses. The easiset way to crack these (pre a seasoned mecahnic..it works), on the line side is to heat the fitting up until it blows the hose off. I was ready for it and I still jumped. Once the hose is off you can easily crack the line nut. Remove the clip and put the new lines on. Before learning thsi trick I was working it and working it with no success. I would also invest in a good set of flare nut wrenches. All of these steps will help prevent stripping the nut.
