(Steeroids)adjusting toe, cant turn tie rods!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
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From: Okeechobee Florida
(Steeroids)adjusting toe, cant turn tie rods!
i wanted to turn each tie rod one turn to straighten up the steering wheel but they are frozen! whats up with that!!??!!
anybody else have this problem?
and yes...i tried PB Blaster etc...
sure i can take them off and bench turn them but i shouldnt have to do that...
ive got a feeling its the "metal against aluminum" thing...
cripes...i dont even take my car out in the rain!
anybody else have this problem?
and yes...i tried PB Blaster etc...
sure i can take them off and bench turn them but i shouldnt have to do that...
ive got a feeling its the "metal against aluminum" thing...
cripes...i dont even take my car out in the rain!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Orange Park Florida
You saying the adjusting collars are made of aluminum??, I know the tie rod ends would have to be steel....I never heard of any company using aluminum for anything like tie rod ends or strut rods.....you sure???
if so, yeh, it reacts with steel, but all need do is unscrew the things and put some good old wheel bearing grease on them....
I would think aluminum anywhere in a tie rod situation would be too weak....
GENE
if so, yeh, it reacts with steel, but all need do is unscrew the things and put some good old wheel bearing grease on them....
I would think aluminum anywhere in a tie rod situation would be too weak....
GENE
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Looking at the steeroids kit, it looks like they use the same aluminium radius rods as I have for my spreader bar setup, theya re from speedway motors and I would certainly NOT use those for tie rods, use steel.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
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From: Okeechobee Florida
Originally Posted by mrvette
You saying the adjusting collars are made of aluminum??, I know the tie rod ends would have to be steel....I never heard of any company using aluminum for anything like tie rod ends or strut rods.....you sure???
if so, yeh, it reacts with steel, but all need do is unscrew the things and put some good old wheel bearing grease on them....
I would think aluminum anywhere in a tie rod situation would be too weak....
GENE
if so, yeh, it reacts with steel, but all need do is unscrew the things and put some good old wheel bearing grease on them....
I would think aluminum anywhere in a tie rod situation would be too weak....
GENE
they are the gold tubes in the picture...
definetly NOT what i know as steel...
and as far as unscrewing them to put some grease on them goes...
thats the problem...i CANT unscrew them...
one is frozen solid and the other turns about 1/4 turn and thats it...
and...yes...i did loosen the lock nuts...
Last edited by OkeeGuy; Aug 24, 2004 at 08:18 PM.
Race Director
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
If that is your setup in the picture I find it hard to believe that anything is seized. NO WAy the rod ends will seize in aluminum sleeves. For a reaction to take place at the very least the area needs to be keep wet. You are doing something wrong. Both nuts need to be backed off so they are not touching the sleeve and it should turn.
Your setup is too well maintained to be seized. And yes alumimun is used as strut rods.
Your setup is too well maintained to be seized. And yes alumimun is used as strut rods.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
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From: Okeechobee Florida
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
If that is your setup in the picture I find it hard to believe that anything is seized. NO WAy the rod ends will seize in aluminum sleeves. For a reaction to take place at the very least the area needs to be keep wet. You are doing something wrong. Both nuts need to be backed off so they are not touching the sleeve and it should turn.
Your setup is too well maintained to be seized. And yes alumimun is used as strut rods.
Your setup is too well maintained to be seized. And yes alumimun is used as strut rods.
of course i backed off on the nuts...i installed the Steeroids as well as build the engine etc...
although this pic was taken about a year ago...i do NOT drive the car in the rain etc...
and believe me...they are siezed up TIGHT...
i guess i will remove them and use the bench vise where i can get at them better than lying under the car on jack stands...
i wrote Speed Direct Tech a couple of days ago and have not recieved a reply...
i may call them today...
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Orange Park Florida
All I can say is that it doesn't take much moisture for aluminum to corrode to steel and sieze up really tight, I know my hollow rear strut rods tried that, and they are steel, and so I had to grease hell out of them some years ago, but have not done anything recently, maybe they are seized now for all I know,....
in spite of what Norval says, I would not use aluminum in that sort of assy.....I know that aluminum does crazy things under vibration and stress....it can shatter like glass at the stress point, had it happen to me on a boat engine once....funny looking break too, just like broken glass, replaced same thing outta steel and no more trobles...
that's enough warning for me, thanks....
another thing you may do is instead of grease, use RTV on the threads, make sure it's coated really well.....
GENE
in spite of what Norval says, I would not use aluminum in that sort of assy.....I know that aluminum does crazy things under vibration and stress....it can shatter like glass at the stress point, had it happen to me on a boat engine once....funny looking break too, just like broken glass, replaced same thing outta steel and no more trobles...
that's enough warning for me, thanks....
another thing you may do is instead of grease, use RTV on the threads, make sure it's coated really well.....
GENE
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,825
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From: Shawano WI
The aluminum sleeves are the same as we use on short track race cars. They are more thn adequite for the application. As far as being seized, it is very ppossible. The salt air in Florida will corrode aluminum very quickly. Before we race a car in Florida, we have to use anti-sieze on every threaded part on the race car or they will start to seize after one week of racing. If you did not put anti-seize on the heim joint threads before assy, I would expect them to be seized up.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
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From: Orange Park Florida
Pete, you gotta be kidding, after a WEEK??, jeezus man....
where you racing?? on the shore in the surf a la early Nascar???
I 40 miles or so from the beach, crow flys, and not THAT bad off after several years....
GENE
where you racing?? on the shore in the surf a la early Nascar???
I 40 miles or so from the beach, crow flys, and not THAT bad off after several years....
GENE
Race Director
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
[QUOTE=Pete79L82]The aluminum sleeves are the same as we use on short track race cars. They are more thn adequite for the application.
I agree with Pete. ALL my tie rod and strut rods are alumimum, ALL of them. Coleman racing sells aluminum strut rods for race cars.
Check out the tensile strength of alumimum vs steel and some of it is right up there.
I use 1 inch solid 6061 T6 , drill it myself and tap left and right 5/8th for the rod ends,
I have never had a problem or even think about it.
In my cupboard I have chrome moly tie rods and alumimum and I always choose the aluminum.
NOTHING on my car gets installed dry so maybe that I why I have never had a problem.
I agree with Pete. ALL my tie rod and strut rods are alumimum, ALL of them. Coleman racing sells aluminum strut rods for race cars.
Check out the tensile strength of alumimum vs steel and some of it is right up there.
I use 1 inch solid 6061 T6 , drill it myself and tap left and right 5/8th for the rod ends,
I have never had a problem or even think about it.
In my cupboard I have chrome moly tie rods and alumimum and I always choose the aluminum.
NOTHING on my car gets installed dry so maybe that I why I have never had a problem.
Race Director
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Yes but look at the setup, they are the lowest point on the frotn suspension. One thick brick or whatever on the street and the thing may snap. They may be cood on compression & tension but not when bending them. I'd use steel ones.
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Yes but look at the setup, they are the lowest point on the frotn suspension. One thick brick or whatever on the street and the thing may snap. They may be cood on compression & tension but not when bending them. I'd use steel ones.
As for a good brick hitting my car, I don't think so.
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From: Living in the Hartland
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Yes but look at the setup, they are the lowest point on the frotn suspension. One thick brick or whatever on the street and the thing may snap. They may be cood on compression & tension but not when bending them. I'd use steel ones.
Looks to me the lower control arm is pretty much even if not lower which should give a fair amount of protection.
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
No way they are the lowest point. MY oil pan and headers are alot lower. Remember the tie rods go to the center link and the center link is right up agianst the pan in front of the sump. The tie rods are far from hitting anything.
As for a good brick hitting my car, I don't think so.
As for a good brick hitting my car, I don't think so.
) I managed to hit a pretty big rock one time at night and it did some real nasty stuff to the tie rod, it was bent quite a bit. Wouldn't want thta to happen with an aluminium rod. I've got steel ones for everything (tie rods, trailign arms, camber rods, rear toe control rod), only alu ones I have are the 2 destined to become some kind of spreader bar setup (when I find some cheap 5/8 rod ends, only have 1/2" and 3/4" ones).
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
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From: Okeechobee Florida
Originally Posted by PureSilver
If they are frozen, try a drop or two of 'CLP Break-Free' found at fine gun stores. Let it sit for 24 hours.
F-16 mechanics use this stuff- i've seen it work miracles.
F-16 mechanics use this stuff- i've seen it work miracles.
thanx for the input guys...
steeroids (Eric) emailed me back and what he said was no help at all...
hhhmmm.....
Race Director
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next time put copper paste on the threads.
In case you can't break it loose, the rods are only like 13$ or so a piece from http://www.speedwaymotors.com (look for sleeves under race products) the rod ends are a bit more, depending on what quality you take (chrome moly ones are the most expensive)
In case you can't break it loose, the rods are only like 13$ or so a piece from http://www.speedwaymotors.com (look for sleeves under race products) the rod ends are a bit more, depending on what quality you take (chrome moly ones are the most expensive)
