How do I remove engine oil pan '78
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 145
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From: Jacksonville Florida
How do I remove engine oil pan '78
My Vette is a '78 and I need to change the gasket of the engine oil pan. Can anybody let me know what the procedure is of removing and installing the oil pan. When I look underneath my Vette I see that the steering bar is right underneath the pan. Is there something special I need to do with this bar before I can remove the pan?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Most people break loose the steering bar and pull it. You can also turn the crank while working it out. I alway jack the motor up as far as it will go.
Make sure to a one piece fel pro gasket. It will be the last you ever buy. No leaky, leaky.
Make sure to a one piece fel pro gasket. It will be the last you ever buy. No leaky, leaky.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Englewood CO
I believe you will have to remove the idler arm from the frame of the car, but leave it attached to the rest of the steering components. Can't really remember what else is envolved, was over a year ago I did the same thing.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,042
Likes: 674
From: FL
Removing the oil pan is easy once the steering linkage is out of the way. I have done this several times.
Easiest way that I have found is to use a tie-rod separator to diconnect the steering link from the idler arm and the passenger tie rod. Once this is done, the link can be pushed to the drivers side, down and forward giving enough clearance to get the pan out. I fond this easier than unbolting the idler arm from the frame with my headers.
I have never had to crank the motor over (I put it at #1 TDC before starting) or jack it up.
As for the pan itself, if you have a manual, the sheet metal clutch cover has to be removed (forward side bottom part of bellhousing). If this piece is original, you will have to remove the starter. I trimmed mine so I can remove and replace it with the starter in place. Also helps to remove the oil filter.
Other points:
- Get a one piece FelPro gasket. They work great. But make sure you get all the old gasket off.
- Pan is sheetmetal. Do NOT overtighten and use a criss-cross pattern. I need up going around the pan about three times to get it snug. Snug is tight enough.
- I replaced the bolts with ARP studs. Works great and makes life a lot easier.
Over all, this is not a hard job. I just replaced my oil pump and the whole job took less than 3 hours even with the pump work.
Easiest way that I have found is to use a tie-rod separator to diconnect the steering link from the idler arm and the passenger tie rod. Once this is done, the link can be pushed to the drivers side, down and forward giving enough clearance to get the pan out. I fond this easier than unbolting the idler arm from the frame with my headers.
I have never had to crank the motor over (I put it at #1 TDC before starting) or jack it up.
As for the pan itself, if you have a manual, the sheet metal clutch cover has to be removed (forward side bottom part of bellhousing). If this piece is original, you will have to remove the starter. I trimmed mine so I can remove and replace it with the starter in place. Also helps to remove the oil filter.
Other points:
- Get a one piece FelPro gasket. They work great. But make sure you get all the old gasket off.
- Pan is sheetmetal. Do NOT overtighten and use a criss-cross pattern. I need up going around the pan about three times to get it snug. Snug is tight enough.
- I replaced the bolts with ARP studs. Works great and makes life a lot easier.
Over all, this is not a hard job. I just replaced my oil pump and the whole job took less than 3 hours even with the pump work.
Last edited by SteveG75; Aug 28, 2004 at 06:53 PM.
