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I agree, for barbed ended ball valves, Lowes or Home Depot--or maybe Ace Hardware--is the best choice. For non barbed heater hose cut off valves Napa auto parts carries both 5/8" and 3/4". I used Napa, however the ball valves are easier/quicker to turn.
I live in a city with no Lowe's. The Home Depot does not carry 5/8" ball valves. No barbed valves of any sort. Any other suggestions. I'll try Napa and get brab adapters. Thanks for the input.
Try a local hardware or plumbing store they should have them. You
normally purchase the shut off valve with female threaded ends. Then
purchase the barbs separately with male threaded ends. Use some
teflon thread sealer when you assemble them.
Would only put the shut off valve on the inlet side of the heater core.
I put one upstream of the factory heater control valve. Would not
put one on the outlet side of the heater core. Am concerned that
if both valves are closed, as the water in the heater core expands from
picking up heat from the engine and exhaust, it has no place to go and
could burst the heater core.
I used a bypass/recirculating type valve from a 1998 Ford Ranger. It allows water to the heater core when vaccum is applied and just recirculates the water to the engine block/water pump when the vaccum is turned off. I use a vaccum override switch for the headlights to actuate the water valve. The vaccum switch is mounted beside the headlight override switch - looks like it from the factory.
At first I used the manual valves but it was too much trouble. Then I used a vacuum operate valve in the supply valve, 5/8" hose, because these valves are easy to get. I found that the return side would allow heat to be conducted into the heater core.
Roger
I bought one (5/8) for a late 70's impalia from Autozone for about $12. I was going to hook a cable up to it like it was suppose to have but never did. I just open the hood when I want to change it. I just went in and asked to see some untill I found it.
your 5/8 valve in really 1/2 inch copper, and will work fine with 3/4 hose also....thing is, you need to sweat the copper ends into the valve quickly to avoid damage to the valve seals...and then just clamp it home....
you need a brass valve....china imports are cheap enough....
plastic will not carry the engine temps.....distort/leak/fail....
Try a plumbing or industrial supplier,if you don't have any around you try www.mcmaster.com they'll have everything you need. You should be able to get a brass hose barb that threads into a brass 1/2" ball valve.
Gary
Can anyone suggest a source for 3/4" and 5/8" ball valves, preferably with barbed ends.
Thanks
HP
Here's what I use:
I went to my local parts store and they pulled out a book containing pictures and descriptions of the heater valves that are available from Stant, and other manufacturers. I simply saw the part I wanted and they ordered it for me. I think the application is like a volvo or some whacky thing, but it works great for our vacuum controlled system. They have normally open or normally closed valves so you can choose the way you want yours to work. I used a normally open and then Tee'd into the A/C vacuum line so that when I turned on the A/C then the heater valve would cut off flow. Another option would be a normally closed valve and Tee into the Heater vacuum line. It all depends on whether you want a little heat control when you have it set to vent (like for Canada, Northern States, Sweden, Norway, or any normally cold environment), or if you like fresh cool air like for Equatorial environments where it's mostly hot.
Just cut the heater hose between the firewall and engine ....
insert valve. If you have AC - you should already have a vacuum
operated one like shown above.
I just replaced my wife's 98 Tahoe heater valve this weekend.
It would work well. It attaches to both hoses and when it closes,
the coolant is re-routed back to the engine.