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My 1980 has blown 3 ujoints in the past 2 years. I do not drive it hard, I don't smoke the tires or put any unusual stress on the rear. From behind, you can see that the rear is sagging. The tires are pointed in at the top. Is this a spring, or shock problem? Could this be putting stress on the ujoint somehow? I am about to fix it again and I would like to get it right this time. Anyone have any thoughts as to what my problem is? Thanks all. Tom
You could be tightening the ubolts too tight. This will contort the caps to an egg shape leading to failure. The ubolts should only to torqued to something low like 15 foot pounds.
There is a provision for adjusting the camber. The strut rods have an eccentric cam so the camber can be set. However... if the camber won't adjust far enough, the problem (common) is worn side yokes. There should be almost NO in-out play. What usually happens is the yoke wears at the end inside the differential and that allows the struts to move outward beyond limits of adjustment. They(yokes) will actually wear into the snap ring. There is a lot of info on this problem, fixes and results of not fixing. If the yokes are worn it is an unsafe and potetially dangerous condition and needs to be looked at. As for U-joints ... The half shaft U-joints need to be Spicer... Not substitutions. The ones sold by chain auto parts places don't last very long. I have seen the cheap ones fail in just a few weeks.... or less if driven hard.
Last edited by Larry B.; Sep 9, 2004 at 02:35 AM.
Reason: additional info
I have a similar problem with my 80. I finally got tired of the problem and tore the whole rear end apart. I replaced one side yoke and the other part that the ujoint sits in by the wheel. All new u-joint straps, and lifetime garaunteed u-joints. I also installed some 3.73 gears. I had one u-joint go bad since then about 4000 miles. i also had an alignment done after the rear was rebuilt. I think what I will do next is get the u-joint strap update kit from Van Steel. I don't know if it will help but I think that the new caps will hold the u-joint tighter in the seat without distorting the u-joint cap. Other that that maybe a set of smart struts from Vette Brakes, they are supposed to help keep the rear camber at more of a constant. They might take out some unnecessary play that could be stressing the joints. I have yet to actually break the u-joint but the berings in the cap seem to wear out even when greased regularly.
Be sure to check the area where the u-joint sits in the side yoke and the other end by the wheel. if they are worn even alittle, you'll go through u-joints faster than you can put them in. I learned the hard way.
with all of the above. I don't think Spicer is the only way to go though. Neapco, which is made by Spicer has a much nicer u-joint. Spicer changed the design on the u-joint seal to plastic and 9 times out of 10 you'll crack the plastic seal when you are installing them. The Neapco joints use a rubber seal. You can check you in & out play on your side yokes by pushing at 12 & 6 o'clock on the tire. You can also have someone push back and forth on the wheel while you crawl under there and see it actually moving in and out of the diff.
This just happened to me today. I'd been noticing that things felt "different" in the rear end, and today it started clunking, then intermittent squealing. Last week my camber went bad (went from the set -1 degree to many degrees negative (about 60-90 degree turn of the cam compared to the other that hasn't moved) I've been too busy with working full time and taking 12 hours of college at the same time to fix it. That and having something I have to do every weekend. Anyway, I guess the more exteme angles of the u-joints caused overheating and failure. It is obvious because the others are still painted black, while this one is apparently burnt off and rusted in the area immediately around the u-joint.