Tuning help needed........Please.
With idle vacuum SO low, you have one of two issues:
A radical camshaft (which, at 7" of vacuum would be INSANELY radical), or
A monster vacuum leak....
My best guess, without physically looking at the car, would be that you have a vacuum leak. An EASY way to check is the following:
With the car running at idle, put your hand over the primary side of the carb, blocking flow to the engine... IF the engine RPMs suddenly go up, you've got a BIG vacuum leak... The fact that you turn the idle-screws in, tends to support this theory...
On the timing side, remember that you should divide the timing marks by 1/2, to get a true indication... So you're *really* at 20 degrees with 32-degrees max... Not TOO bad, not out of the range of reasonable engines... I would ignore this, and move back to vacuum issues...
Let's talk about carbs, for a moment. IF the carb is not a brand-new unit (not rebuilt), I would ask to borrow a spread-bore carb from a buddy, and try it out.... Q-Jets are notorious for running WONDERFUL when they're alive, and being a miserable experience when they finally "die." Borrow a carb, and see if you CAN dial it in....? If yes, then problem is mostly solved.... Hell, I would probably swap carbs anyway, just to see what happens!!!
I hope all this helps.... Keep us posted!





V8FastCars@msn.com
With idle vacuum SO low, you have one of two issues:
A radical camshaft (which, at 7" of vacuum would be INSANELY radical), or
A monster vacuum leak....
Carb is brand new. I'm sure I don't have a vacuum leak. I'm thinking the cam is not timed correctly and the ignition timing is compensating for it.
I wonder how effective the idle mixture screws are at 7" vac.
I don't follow your thought on taking the timing indication and cutting it in half. Isn't the degree tape an extension of the timing marks already present? Why cut it in half?








time to put a dagree wheel on it and find out