Many cooling system questions
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Many cooling system questions
The lower radiator hose on my ’79 split over the weekend, so “while I’m at it” I’m going to replace the belts, hoses, thermostat and the water pump, which I think has been the source of a lot of noise. I have all of those things removed and will begin buying parts soon.
Water pump on a ’79 small block: is this a Chevrolet short style, long style or Corvette only pump?
Are any of the four water pump mounting bolts “wet” (i,e, do they penetrate the water jackets in the block?) If so, do the bolts need to be sealed and if so, with what?
I’ve been told that the OEM radiator is aluminum, is this correct? Are replacement radiator brass or aluminum? If mine were leaking, would it be better to repair or replace? If I keep it, would it be worth having it boiled out?
Thanks.
Water pump on a ’79 small block: is this a Chevrolet short style, long style or Corvette only pump?
Are any of the four water pump mounting bolts “wet” (i,e, do they penetrate the water jackets in the block?) If so, do the bolts need to be sealed and if so, with what?
I’ve been told that the OEM radiator is aluminum, is this correct? Are replacement radiator brass or aluminum? If mine were leaking, would it be better to repair or replace? If I keep it, would it be worth having it boiled out?
Thanks.
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Santa Monica CA
I'm pretty sure all C3 water pumps are the short style. Most catalogs like Summit and JEGS will have them listed for Corvettes. The bolts do not penetrate the engine or cooling system and do not need to be sealed, just make sure you have locking washers and they're torqued to spec. Don't know about fixing radiators... that's one battle I haven't had to fight yet. From what I understand the OEM design Corvette radiators are extremely good.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
From: Norcross GA
Originally Posted by humiliategravity
The bolts do not penetrate the engine or cooling system and do not need to be sealed, just make sure you have locking washers and they're torqued to spec.
Last edited by Bobchad; Sep 13, 2004 at 12:39 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 128
Likes: 1
From: Sherwood Ar
St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'19
just replaced the water pump on my 81. i used permatex on all the bolts just in case. my only suggestion is to check the clearance on the pulleys before you install. i compared my old pump to the new one and they "looked" identical. however the shaft was about 1/32" shorter on the new one and the pulleys rubbed on the pump housing. it's enuf of a pita to do it once.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
Originally Posted by Neo Fender
I’ve been told that the OEM radiator is aluminum, is this correct? Are replacement radiator brass or aluminum? If mine were leaking, would it be better to repair or replace? If I keep it, would it be worth having it boiled out?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 7
From: Brazos TX
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Make sure you get a specific Corvette short style pump. The shaft diameter is larger on the Vette parts. Your pulleys won't be properly centered if you get a pump for another car. Use non hardening sealer on the bolts (like others said, permatex makes some). The radiator is copper/brass if it is stock. It may be a good idea to have it cleaned out while you have it all apart.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 10,896
Likes: 2
From: CO
Just went thru all this a bit ago.
Waterpump: the bolts do penetrate the water jacket. When you get it off you will see for sure. Use some sealant on the bolts. I got some at the local parts store.
Rad: stock is copper/brass. I had mine repaired. They can fix leaks on the sides where the tanks are. If its leaking from the center they may not be able to fix. mine cost 70 dollars and looks/works like new.
I replaced all the heater core hoses and uppper/lower hoses on the car. Was pretty easy (except the actual heater core). Keeps the 350 right at 190 all day every day.
Waterpump: the bolts do penetrate the water jacket. When you get it off you will see for sure. Use some sealant on the bolts. I got some at the local parts store.
Rad: stock is copper/brass. I had mine repaired. They can fix leaks on the sides where the tanks are. If its leaking from the center they may not be able to fix. mine cost 70 dollars and looks/works like new.
I replaced all the heater core hoses and uppper/lower hoses on the car. Was pretty easy (except the actual heater core). Keeps the 350 right at 190 all day every day.
