If you could build a 383 or 400 what components would you use? I'm
thinking about building one over the winter and using a small block .
It saves weight and you can get alot of hp and torque out of a small block these days and make it bullet proof. Let's see some suggestions....

 

406ci, more cubes and no grinding the block, a no brainer for me

 

People complain because the "technical stuff is missing from the C3 section" and this has no responses yet. People post about things that are all attitude related and they get over a thousand views and 100 replies, but someone asks questions about an engine swap that several people have done and others are interested in and no one answers. I am planning on a larger displacement small block also, but I kinda know what I want to do already. I'd be interested in seeing everyone already with a larger than 350 small block chime in and get their opinions of the build/swap/new power. BTW- I wrote a thread about a year ago about how people complained about the technical stuff missing when I asked a question about an engine swap and got no replies when someone posted something about how they love their dog or whatever and it got a buttload of replies.

 

I have never complained about the lack of tech info: I have gotten a ton of great technical information on the forum since joining. That aside- on to the matter at hand:

As for a 383 buildup, I am doing a street buildup right now. Going for the non-bullitproof version due to cost. For bulletproof I would do almost exaclty the same motor just replace the crank, rods and pistons with all forged units. But to justify the expense of the bottom end I would have to setup a killer NO2 system and get about 750 HP... That would mean building up the rear end. Sounds like fun and if I had the money I would do it. But here is what I am putting in my motor. I am hoping to be in the 450 HP range (flywheel) when finished.

1974 4 bolt truck block- bored 30 over, decked. Main/cam remain stock-

Scat 9000 cast crank
Scat I beam 6" rods
KB hyper pistons- flat top 10.5:1 w/ 64cc heads
Cam is still in the air- probably a towing cam good from 1500-5000
Trick Flow Twisted wedge or KD series heads w/ 64cc chambers.
Edelbrock RPM manifold
Edelbrock 600cfm carb
Hooker side mount headers/4" sidepipes.

Heads and manifold will be mildly ported to match.
Will be using 1.6 lifters- need lots of lift w/ 383 and low RPM's.

Should be a really fun torque monster. This will be going in along with a 200-4R with whatever torque converter BTO recommends. They were thinking 2000 when I talked to them, but I need to finish the motor first.
I am thinking of going with a TPI setup after running this engine for a summer.
Cheers!
~Kevin

 

Not trying to ruffle anyone's feathers- would just like some good input from people who have done this.

Right now, I have a stock vortec crate motor with a Comp 256XE cam with about 12-15,000 miles on it.
I have a set of Pro Topline 200cc aluminum heads waiting to go on. I plan on getting a 427 short block, but getting divorced is squeezing my funds right now. The car has been sitting too long and I need to start driving it. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to get a roller cam and just put these heads on my shortblock for the time being. Sorry to hi-jack your thread, but trying to get some substance into this thread.

 

Completely not offended! Just stating that there are plenty of us out there who like to read the non technical threads as well as the techy ones! More people should check out the engine mods section. I keep posting techy questions over there and not many people seem to see them. Although the ones that do post some really great advice!


Get that vette out on the street where it belongs! Any engine (even a whimpy caprice motor) is better than none! LOL... I know, I have been driving my whimpy '79 L-82 in stock form every day for the past 4 years!
Once the 383 is in I will be doing a complete rebuild of the L-82 #'s matching engine and leaving it on a stand in the shop as a garage ornament.

~Kevin

 

I m interested as well. I see a lot of the crate motor discussion and I wonder about the quailty. AR Motors has a 435 HP 383 on ebay for $3500. That is almost half what I see most other Turn key motors going for. That is the kind of HP I'm looking for but I guess I wonder about the quality of the internal components. I wonder if they are using used Rods and cranks and how well they will hold up. My car is a street driver so maybe I don't need lunati forged innards...I guess the problem is ya probably wont figure that out til it too late so I like to take the better safe than sorry plan...unfortunately that costs a lot more.

 

See my post in http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=906283 for a great "new" (2003) book on building big-inch small-blocks.

 

I'm planning on storing the original motor and building one I can really play with. The small block saves weight, but I understand about cubic inches. I' start with a good four bolt main and try to find a forged crank and work from there. I'd like to see some combos that folks are running and what hp and torque amounts there getting.

I see and ask all types of questions on the Forum, any topic is welcome, that's how we all learn....

 

Building a "stroker" is my winter project of choice aswell.
I am taking all the "ancillaries" from my current motor (serpentine kit, intake, carb, headers).
I have a 1969 4 bolt mains 350 block and think I am going to go with Larry's Performance 396 kit, mixed with a pair of aluminum heads, the weiand team g and demon 750 I already have.
I am still up in the air about a cam, I just knwo it wont be a roller (too much $$$) But I had a good experience with the XE274 in th emotor now, so maybe a step up from that.

Nick

 

I'm leaning toward the 383, I think for starters locate a 350 block, 1987 to ???? GM camaros, trucks???? had the one piece rear main seals for starters and I think some also had 4 bolt mains. Can anyone help me with this info???

 

This is something that I have thought for future plans also. I have a replacement LT1 (older style) block so I would not be grinding an original. I am looking at a 396 kit with forged crank, 6 inch rods, forged pistons and a compression of around 10.5 to 1. This with my current cam and heads sould produce around 500 Hp and torque to boot. It would rev to 7K with no problems. Not the cheapest way to go but good reliable HP costs $$$. Just need to find a spare 2K around. Any donations?

 

I'll give you what I can afford: my $.02. Build it and it will be fun!

I'm looking at about $2K on my "budget motor"- that does include the $900 for the heads though!

 

I just built a 406ci last winter, first you have to decide how much power you want and how much you want to spend. A high revving high horse big inch mouse is gonna need some good ( read expensive ) heads along with all the other parts that go along with it.

YOu can read my sig for the parts, the Victor Jr. heads flow about 275cfm at .600 in. which is about the best numbers I've seen for 23deg. heads. Desktop Dyno puts this motor at 575HP and 550 ft lbs of torque with over 400ft/lbs from 2000 rpm up. It will spin the tires at 50mph and I have already blown one Super T10 transmission in the first day or so I had it running. The motor is fully ARP studded and it hits peak power at 6500 RPM.

Now I have to upgrade to a Keisler TKO 600 and get a Lakewood scatter shield, a new pre-80 rear end and the saftey loops for the half shafts so you have to know what you are getting into with something like this.

The solid roller cam lets me drive around in 4th at 1500 rpm if I want and it behaves just like a "normal" motor ( except for the idle) but when you put your foot into it there is nothing like it.

Anyway that is my combination and I know it works but it is expensive and you have to stay on top of maintenance especially the roller valve train as I have had to adjust it three times already but hopefully it is worn in now and the adjustments will be less frequent.

Hope this helps

 

Gordon,
you know what I have, I can't think of hitting 6,000 rpms in the 1/4, but that 396 kit sounds interesting, where did you see the kit? And trying to lighten the car will help also, lighter wheels will help, the stock wheels are heavy and tough on the drive train. I can see TT II's coming and 8lbs lighter per wheel.....

 

Just picked up my 383.....today. In fact it's sitting in the back of the wife's Yukon right now....

Can't wait to get in put in and fired up.

I switch mid stream on my build to a roller cam - I'd definitely make sure you go that direction. More vaccum and power to be had.

 

Jay, The 396 kit just uses a 3.875 crank instead of 3.75. Hey if your going to stroke it go for the largest stroke that will fit. There are a bunch of crank makers that have this stroke. Just a little more clearancing is needed vs. the 3.75 crank.

 

There's a company in california that sells complete balanced 383 crank, rod and pistons for 6 or 700 bucks. All cast parts, naturally. I can't remember the name, but they advertize in Chevy High Performance and other magazines. Comes with dampener and flexplate too. Joe

 

Thanks everyone for your imput, i'm sure this will be discussed again...

 

im building a cast 383 for my truck, TORQUE i'll only turn it to 5500 on the rare blast down the track