Need help...Speaker install on my 73 vert.
09-23-2004, 07:57 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Need help...Speaker install on my 73 vert.
Putting new speakers in the dash. Got the passenger knee bolster off and was able to access the speaker from underneath the top part of the dash, install the speaker and all done. 
However, I can not figure out how to get the knee bolster / underdash off of the driver side. I have removed all of the screws, removed the two bolts underneath which anchor the steering column to give it a bit of extra play and I can not get it out. Is it attached to the gauges Somehow? Is there something I am missing? SHould I be trying to remove the upper dashboard / decklid instead of trying to reach it from the bottom?
Any tips, tricks, etc would be really helpful.
Thank you
Shane
However, I can not figure out how to get the knee bolster / underdash off of the driver side. I have removed all of the screws, removed the two bolts underneath which anchor the steering column to give it a bit of extra play and I can not get it out. Is it attached to the gauges Somehow? Is there something I am missing? SHould I be trying to remove the upper dashboard / decklid instead of trying to reach it from the bottom?
Any tips, tricks, etc would be really helpful.
Thank you
Shane
09-23-2004, 08:10 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
There are two bolts holding the steering column to the firewall WAY up under at the base of the column. They are a pain to get at but they need to come out to lower the column far enough to remove the dash pad. Plan on it takeing a while. The speedo and tach are part of it pluss you have to dis-connect a lot of wiring. Not fun
09-23-2004, 08:51 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Larry B.
There are two bolts holding the steering column to the firewall WAY up under at the base of the column. They are a pain to get at but they need to come out to lower the column far enough to remove the dash pad. Plan on it takeing a while. The speedo and tach are part of it pluss you have to dis-connect a lot of wiring. Not fun
SHane
09-23-2004, 08:52 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by joe73vette
I did mine from the top. It wasn't that bad. Joe
Thanks
Shane
09-23-2004, 10:31 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Crescent City, CA
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If you remove the right side window moulding, you can lift the dash high enough to change that speaker.
Remove both sides and the center screw at the firewall and the dash pad will come out. You have to bow the pad a little. I would not do this if the pad is old.
Hope this helps.
Terry
Remove both sides and the center screw at the firewall and the dash pad will come out. You have to bow the pad a little. I would not do this if the pad is old.
Hope this helps.
Terry
09-23-2004, 11:53 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by trw
the center screw at the firewall
Thanks
SHane
09-24-2004, 12:22 AM
#8
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2004
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This is courtesy of Vettfixr from another thread.
To release that side of the dash you have to push your hand up and depress the tabs where the tach and speedo cables go in to the gauges. When you depress the tabs you will be able to pull the cables out. If you already have the top off this might not be too bad a chore but it's never pleasant. You should then loosen the two screws that hold the extreme left side of the panel to the door jam. Make sure you have the steering column lower cover removed and loosen the two large bolts that hold the steering column up. You will also have to loosen the bracket at the bottom of the dash that holds the trip reset cable and also the headlamp lock actuator. This is held by screws to the pad and they break easily so go easy loosening this. You should now be able to pull the pad away from the firewall but don't go too far. You have to remove the headlamp switch. To do this you have to depress the button on the inside of the headlamp switch (behind the dash pad) and this will allow you to pull the **** out from the front of the switch. You then turn the bezel counterclockwise to loosen it and remove the switch from the back of the panel. The switch is also attached with a screw to the gauge assembly to provide a ground. Remove this screw. You should now be able to leave the switch hanging and remove the panel the rest of the way. If you meet resistance you may also have to remove the AC ductwork underneath (can't remember exactly if you need to or not...alsheimers). As you pull the pad away from the firewall make sure you loosen the wiring harness from the straps that hold it to the pad. When you get it far enough away get some masking tape and label every bulb with it's position and purpose. Take notes on the color coding too, it helps during reassembly. Once all the wiring is labeled you can remove the pad and do whatever needs to be done to refurbish it and the gauges. Here's a tip, if you're thinking of ever replacing the throttle cable nows the time because it will never be easier to get to it. If you want to see what the dash looks like with the panel removed you can go to my website and look at the page on insulating the interior. You might want to think of insulating the firewall because the original insulation is probably rotted and falling apart. At a minimum you should check the firewall in a dark garage with a light under the hood to make sure there are no leaks where heat can get in. If you see light coming through you'll get heat. Hope this helps a little.
To release that side of the dash you have to push your hand up and depress the tabs where the tach and speedo cables go in to the gauges. When you depress the tabs you will be able to pull the cables out. If you already have the top off this might not be too bad a chore but it's never pleasant. You should then loosen the two screws that hold the extreme left side of the panel to the door jam. Make sure you have the steering column lower cover removed and loosen the two large bolts that hold the steering column up. You will also have to loosen the bracket at the bottom of the dash that holds the trip reset cable and also the headlamp lock actuator. This is held by screws to the pad and they break easily so go easy loosening this. You should now be able to pull the pad away from the firewall but don't go too far. You have to remove the headlamp switch. To do this you have to depress the button on the inside of the headlamp switch (behind the dash pad) and this will allow you to pull the **** out from the front of the switch. You then turn the bezel counterclockwise to loosen it and remove the switch from the back of the panel. The switch is also attached with a screw to the gauge assembly to provide a ground. Remove this screw. You should now be able to leave the switch hanging and remove the panel the rest of the way. If you meet resistance you may also have to remove the AC ductwork underneath (can't remember exactly if you need to or not...alsheimers). As you pull the pad away from the firewall make sure you loosen the wiring harness from the straps that hold it to the pad. When you get it far enough away get some masking tape and label every bulb with it's position and purpose. Take notes on the color coding too, it helps during reassembly. Once all the wiring is labeled you can remove the pad and do whatever needs to be done to refurbish it and the gauges. Here's a tip, if you're thinking of ever replacing the throttle cable nows the time because it will never be easier to get to it. If you want to see what the dash looks like with the panel removed you can go to my website and look at the page on insulating the interior. You might want to think of insulating the firewall because the original insulation is probably rotted and falling apart. At a minimum you should check the firewall in a dark garage with a light under the hood to make sure there are no leaks where heat can get in. If you see light coming through you'll get heat. Hope this helps a little.
Last edited by brystheguy; 09-24-2004 at 12:25 AM.
