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I have always had a little too much shake in my idle. I assumed it was either the carb or a vacuum leak.
Today I decided to locate the source and found several vacuum leaks. The EGR valve would not hold a vacuum and the AIR diverter valve would not hold a vacuum either. Slipped a couple of small ball bearings in the hoses and those leaks were done away with. One of the other hoses had a crack so I cut the end off and stuck it back on till I can replace it properly. The idle is a LOT better now. I have a few more hoses to check but ran out of time. Keep this in mind if you have original hoses under the hood. Vacuum leaks are a real pain.
Also did some rewiring for the idle stop solenoid which was not getting any power before. Short circuit somewhere near the firewall. Barn job repair zapped with a soldering gun and we were good to go.
I mentioned this last week after finding two vacuum hoses that had cracked and split with age. One was going to the vacuum advance on distributor and the other was the short one from the carb to the choke pull-off.
What did you use to check for the leaks? That's on my to do list.
Various ways were used. I have a Mighty-Vac that pulls a vacuum on the diaphram type parts such as the diverter valve, the EGR valve and the EFE actuators in the air cleaner assy. The brake booster I disconnected and plugged to see if the idle changed then re-connected (no change). The vacuum advance was checked with the Mighty Vac but since it was new I figured it would be fine. The hoses were a visual inspection. You can cut off a half inch or so if they fit loose until you get suitable replacements.
The rear manifold vacuum tap for the accessories was last on the list and I ran out of time but the plan is to disconnect/plug and see if it affects the idle. If it does not affect the idle, all is well. If it does improve, we got more work to do.