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UGH! Pulling steering control valve

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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 01:02 AM
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Default UGH! Pulling steering control valve

I got the car up on the ramps - had to jack it up and place the ramps under tires. Put the jack stands under the frame for added coverage.

Now, pulled hoses off the valve but can't break it from the pitman arm. Since the front wheels are on ramps, I can't turn the wheel and put a pickle fork in there. Any suggestions? In addition, when I did the job to begin with, the car was up on a rack and the steering/susp was hanging down instead of being tucked under it.

Ticks me off royal because it's just six months old. I replaced the pump and hoses, along with the ram with new parts. The control valve is the only one that was rebuilt! :o

Last edited by SanDiegoPaul; Oct 11, 2004 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 11:00 AM
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ttt
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 11:54 AM
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Whenever I have replaced a control valve it was with the car on jack
stands, so not sure if you have clearance with the suspension not
extended. I used a small pitman arm puller (most auto parts stores
sell two sizes) and position it above the control valve. There is a hole
in the upper control arm that I push a 3/8" extension thru. Once it
is thru I put the socket on it and place it over the pitman arm puller.
I then place a ratchet on the extension to turn the pitman arm puller.
That is, I am turning the ratchet from above the engine and use a
long extension bar to give plenty of room for clearance.
I find using a pitman arm puller rather than a pickle fork is easier and
does not risk damaging anything from hammering or tearing any
rubber boots.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mark79,80
Whenever I have replaced a control valve it was with the car on jack stands, <<snipped>> I find using a pitman arm puller rather than a pickle fork is easier and does not risk damaging anything from hammering or tearing any rubber boots.
Sure is worth a try!!

Thanks@!
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mark79,80
Whenever I have replaced a control valve it was with the car on jack
stands, so not sure if you have clearance with the suspension not
extended. I used a small pitman arm puller (most auto parts stores
sell two sizes) and position it above the control valve. There is a hole
in the upper control arm that I push a 3/8" extension thru. Once it
is thru I put the socket on it and place it over the pitman arm puller.
I then place a ratchet on the extension to turn the pitman arm puller.
That is, I am turning the ratchet from above the engine and use a
long extension bar to give plenty of room for clearance.
I find using a pitman arm puller rather than a pickle fork is easier and
does not risk damaging anything from hammering or tearing any
rubber boots.


I di this with a puller with the wheels on the ground. The puller will fit. You may find that it slides of initially, but tighten and loosen, tighten and loosen and eventually, it will pop off.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 05:27 PM
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Put it on jack stands. I use a pickle fork. Hit it until the stud pops off the pitman arm. After you take the bolt out of the valve, take a chissle and spread the clamp. Turns right off. When you put a new valve on, grease up the threads and turn it back on.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 06:12 AM
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I agree and I'd have Van Steel rebuild it. I had the same thing happen on a valve I bought from one of those parts sellers. Then I had Van Steel rebuild it NO Problems works like a champ NO Leaks and a 5 year warranty.
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