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Have an air leak allowing the car to run 1000RPM idle with the butterflies completely closed. Checking for air leaks use soap test by where the runners end at the heads? Any flame test etc. ideas?
I use propane to check for @ find vacuum leaks. You need a straight valve though, not the usual torch since that mixes with air. With a rubber hose attached you can direct the propane where you wantto check. Since propane is heavier than air it doesnt get sucked into the carb unless you get close.
When you find the leak the RPMs will noticably increase. I also use it to double check mixture settings.
I heard that to. I'll try that or just gas and see if it seeps into the intake with the car running. Thanks.
David
David,
Please don't use gasoline, you're asking for trouble with fire in the event of a spark or excess heat. Use carb cleaner or ideally propane and a variable valve like Jim described. Gasoline fires are something our Vettes don't need!
I heard of spraying starting fluid around the carb base and other areas. The rpm will change when you do hit the area that is leaking.
I had a leak that I could hear and I knew the general area it was coming from but I could not say for sure where it was. I then got out the can of starting fluid and after a couple of quick shots at where I thought the leak was, the msytery was solved. The engine will noticable pick up in rpms, or at least it did in my case.
If your new manifold is a standard Performer, not the EPS, you should check at the rear of the carb where it mounts to the mainfold for your vacuum leak.
Ok, silly question but are we sure it's a leak and not the Carb?
You may have to put the Edlebrock back on to verify...i'm sure that's not exactly what you wanted to hear.
Your right it might be. That's a butt load of work as all the connections are now different. I'll try your idea if the propane test which takes 5 minutes yields nothing.
I use propane to check for @ find vacuum leaks. You need a straight valve though, not the usual torch since that mixes with air. With a rubber hose attached you can direct the propane where you wantto check. Since propane is heavier than air it doesnt get sucked into the carb unless you get close.
When you find the leak the RPMs will noticably increase. I also use it to double check mixture settings.
Jim
Silly question but do you use just propane (i.e. my propane braze kit) with the propane lite up with flame or just propane???
If your new manifold is a standard Performer, not the EPS, you should check at the rear of the carb where it mounts to the mainfold for your vacuum leak.
Silly question but do you use just propane (i.e. my propane braze kit) with the propane lite up with flame or just propane???
Just propane - no flames You want the propane to be drawn in through the leak, it will then burn in the combustion chamber and cause a rise in RPM. A torch tip won't work though, you need a straight valve - like the valve on the propane (or map gas) & oxygen welding kits. Check out the valve on the map gas tank below. Attach a long rubber hose to the valve to direct the propane where you want to test & keep the tank verticle.
The standard performer manifold designed for spread-bore carbs, has a slight "V" at the rear of the carb mounting surface. When a square-bore carb is used without an adapter plate on this manifold, a tiny amount of the manifold carb inlet is left exposed, causing a hidden vacuum leak.
This is why Edelbrock states their square bore adapter plate #2732 is required for all Performer Series Carburetors (which are square-bore) when used on Performer manifolds for GM engines.
I know this sounds odd but using a length of rubber tubing and putting one end to your ear and guiding the other end around your intake in close proximity to the engine will work similar to a doctors stethoscope. I've used this method for locating vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks. Use something larger than a vacuum line but smaller than 1" dia. for best results.
I use starting fluid all the time at work to find intake leaks. It is the safest way. Use one that has a lubrcant in it. I don't know what propane would do to the pistons or valves, but NEVER use gasoline, one backfire and poof, there goes your harness. I had that happen on a fuel truck that had run out of gas. Poured some gas down the carb, some spilled, it backfired. It could have gotten ugly. I had a friend loose his prized '67 Mustang the same way. Also, I use a vacuum gauge in conjunction. You can tell a lot from it if you know what to look for. If it is twitching, you have a leak on one cylinder, ect.
I use propane to check for @ find vacuum leaks. You need a straight valve though, not the usual torch since that mixes with air. With a rubber hose attached you can direct the propane where you wantto check. Since propane is heavier than air it doesnt get sucked into the carb unless you get close.
When you find the leak the RPMs will noticably increase. I also use it to double check mixture settings.
Jim
I run a late model stock at local circle tracks ... some are nascar sanctioned. One of our best local nascar-certified tech inspectors uses the propane method to check for air leaks around carb/restrictor plate. Our carbs/plates are restricted to limit max air flow. Such leaks matched to rich fuel jetting are purposely induced by cheaters ... such an air leak with appropriate fuel jetting will effectively increase air flow. Inspectors can & do toss leaking carb/plate and results when detected.