79 brake bleed question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 9
From: staten island ny
79 brake bleed question
Just installed 4 new delco ss calipers and a new m/c. Was going to bleed following the tried and true start furthest from the m/c rule when I decided to take a look in my chevy manual. It says "left rear inner, left rear outer, right rear inner , right rear outer" then on to the fronts. Can someone clarify left and right. Why not use drivers side or passenger side? Just want to be sure.
Thx, ESU in NY.
Thx, ESU in NY.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
From: Longview Texas
ooohh.... do a forum search for brake questions ....... this will be a b*tch if not done right ...... I just did the m/c and both frt calipers and it was a pain......... just to find out the best way to bleed is to just let them gravity bleed etc....... g'luck ....Robert 
Pro
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 599
Likes: 16
From: vista CA
I switched to gravity because bleeding the C3 is to hard any other way IMHO. Always used to do the extra person in the car, open bleeder, peddle down, close bleeder, etc. This technique didn't work to well on my C3 (worked pretty good for all other cars I have done).
With gravity bleeding you bleed one wheel at a time, open master cylinder rersovoir and ensure it does not run dry (keep adding fluid as needed). Get a tube that fits the bleed nipple, run it to a jar with old brake fluid, prime the tube, then start bleeding. I start at passenger rear - do the outter lower bleed screw, outter upper then inner upper - then driver side rear (just did the two rears yesterday as finished putting on new rear shocks, bushings, rebuilt trailing arms, new half shaft u-joints). I do passenger front next, then driver front last (if doing all four).
Some say let them gravity bleed for 30 minutes - I just watch the tube in the jar of old fluid and give it a few minutes after no more bubbles are seen.
Have fun!
With gravity bleeding you bleed one wheel at a time, open master cylinder rersovoir and ensure it does not run dry (keep adding fluid as needed). Get a tube that fits the bleed nipple, run it to a jar with old brake fluid, prime the tube, then start bleeding. I start at passenger rear - do the outter lower bleed screw, outter upper then inner upper - then driver side rear (just did the two rears yesterday as finished putting on new rear shocks, bushings, rebuilt trailing arms, new half shaft u-joints). I do passenger front next, then driver front last (if doing all four).
Some say let them gravity bleed for 30 minutes - I just watch the tube in the jar of old fluid and give it a few minutes after no more bubbles are seen.
Have fun!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
This is one of the most commonly asked and confusing aspects of the C3. The correct bleed order is ...
Driver Rear Inner
Driver Rear Outer
Passenger Rear Inner
Passenger Rear Outer
Driver Front
Passenger Front
(and of course if you've bypassed the proportioning valve, it won't matter if you do front or rear first)
Some people will tell you it doesn't matter, and some will tell you that they never got a solid pedal until bleeding them in this correct order. But it's best to err on the side of caution when you're talking about brakes IMHO.
Driver Rear Inner
Driver Rear Outer
Passenger Rear Inner
Passenger Rear Outer
Driver Front
Passenger Front
(and of course if you've bypassed the proportioning valve, it won't matter if you do front or rear first)
Some people will tell you it doesn't matter, and some will tell you that they never got a solid pedal until bleeding them in this correct order. But it's best to err on the side of caution when you're talking about brakes IMHO.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I've only sucessfuly bled the 77's once (after I had to replace both rear calipers and almost every line - clogged with rust 
). I used the "person in car" method and it worked okay, following the proper bleeder order. I'm going to replace the long front-to-rear line when I have the body up to replace the mounts, I might try the gravity method then.
). I used the "person in car" method and it worked okay, following the proper bleeder order. I'm going to replace the long front-to-rear line when I have the body up to replace the mounts, I might try the gravity method then.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
I also agree with "gtr1999". One of the best investments in tools/sanity savers you will make! I have been pressure bleeding brakes for over 40 years and never had problems even with the most difficult systems. Sometimes when using pressure bleeders, however, you need to pay attention to the distribution/proportioning/differential valves. "Back in the day", I even had a set of (GM, Ford) differential block stubs that you screwed in place of the switch to hold the piston in the center (yep, I do know a bit about those things! - I went looking for the stubs one time this year, but only found one of them and I think it's one for a Ford!!) If you don't "overpressure" the bottle, you should be OK.
Last edited by pws69; Oct 19, 2004 at 01:35 PM.
