[OT] Garage Heater Options
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Engineers do it better.
[OT] Garage Heater Options
Pretty damn cold up here in Canada in winter. Need some advise on what is the prefered heating method by other members. I need to heat up the garage before I start tearing the motor. I came up with the 2 following options:
With electric: I would have to run a 220V line. Extra work.
With propane: It would last only one season. Safety?
Are the running cost similar for both? Which one is safer? More efficient? Garage is about 18x20 feet.
Please comment on your experiences.
With electric: I would have to run a 220V line. Extra work.
With propane: It would last only one season. Safety?
Are the running cost similar for both? Which one is safer? More efficient? Garage is about 18x20 feet.
Please comment on your experiences.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
is your garage insulated? exposed concrete block or wood. i use a constrution style jet kersoene heater in my concrete block garage with plastic over the rafters to act as a heat barrier. if this garage is attached to your house you can expect drawing in fumes from your garage unless you open a window in the house to reduce negative pressure. make sure you have enough BTUs
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Living in the Hartland
You know you will be able to refill the propane heater? 
The cyl is not picture but uses one just like a gas grill. Only problem I see with that is it is radiant heat so it will take a while to heat up the whole garage. I bought torpedo style one for the same $, it is loud but once the garage is heated up to the mid 60's it stays warm for a few hours. Only thing I hate about not having a full time heater is that all the metal on the car stays could and developes sweat when the garage is heated. This is the one I have:
Only 30,000 btu's but it gets my drafty uninsolated 25x25 garage up from 30 to 65 in about an hour, cost $99 at Walmart.
The cyl is not picture but uses one just like a gas grill. Only problem I see with that is it is radiant heat so it will take a while to heat up the whole garage. I bought torpedo style one for the same $, it is loud but once the garage is heated up to the mid 60's it stays warm for a few hours. Only thing I hate about not having a full time heater is that all the metal on the car stays could and developes sweat when the garage is heated. This is the one I have:Only 30,000 btu's but it gets my drafty uninsolated 25x25 garage up from 30 to 65 in about an hour, cost $99 at Walmart.
Last edited by Fevre; Oct 21, 2004 at 04:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Engineers do it better.
ceiling is insulated and drywalled. Wall have drywall only. Floor is concrete.
Propane one seems good enough (my area is only 360 sq.ft.) Another advantage is that it's portable. I will probably use it only for a few days a season anyway....so 29 hrs should be good.
Propane one seems good enough (my area is only 360 sq.ft.) Another advantage is that it's portable. I will probably use it only for a few days a season anyway....so 29 hrs should be good.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,050
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From: Fairport NY
I'm currently looking for an electric heater for my garage. My garage is 576 sq ft (24x24), insulated and I need a heater that would put out 25,000 BTUs. and yes, electricity is dirt cheap where I live.
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Team Owner
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From: Smile, it's just the internet.
We always used a salamander with a thermostat. 110v forced air, kerosene burner, huge BTU output, but noisy and kinda stinky according to the wife...
My next garage will have hanging natural gas heaters. Similar to a salmander in principle, but out of the way since it hangs from the ceiling.
My next garage will have hanging natural gas heaters. Similar to a salmander in principle, but out of the way since it hangs from the ceiling.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: St. Charles IL
I've tried both, and really you need both, the torpedo to get it warm and the propane infrared to keep it warm. if you just have a propane it takes too long to warm up, if you just have a torpedo it is loud and stinks some.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
Here's what I did 2 car garage .........about 22'x22'
I keep it about 55 deg f, It's a little overkill at 80,000 BTU but the price was right
Steve
I keep it about 55 deg f, It's a little overkill at 80,000 BTU but the price was right
Steve
Last edited by stpman; Oct 27, 2004 at 08:55 AM.
Racer
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Toronto On
Why do you say only 1 year?
Doesn't it hook into a standard propane tank, like for BBQs?
Or do you mean you won't ever use it again?
You should be able to find one at CanTire you can use afterward in your basement as a space heater - runs on 120, and probably put out just as much heat.
As far as cost, you're an engineer, figure it out !
4800W heater running for an hour is 4.8 kWh - Aurora Hydro charges 4.7 cents per kWh for the first 750. 22 cents an hour, so you can run the electric one for 120 hours for free (40 nights for 3 hours - that's most of the winter), just based on the price differential. Who knows how efficient it is,but the gas is probably more so. How many BTUs in the tank/how long will it last?
Seal off the door as best you can, air infiltration will cool it down in a hurry. You might also want to put something down on the floor (plywood?) to cut the cold from the concrete floor - it will soak right into you.
Doesn't it hook into a standard propane tank, like for BBQs?
Or do you mean you won't ever use it again?
You should be able to find one at CanTire you can use afterward in your basement as a space heater - runs on 120, and probably put out just as much heat.
As far as cost, you're an engineer, figure it out !
4800W heater running for an hour is 4.8 kWh - Aurora Hydro charges 4.7 cents per kWh for the first 750. 22 cents an hour, so you can run the electric one for 120 hours for free (40 nights for 3 hours - that's most of the winter), just based on the price differential. Who knows how efficient it is,but the gas is probably more so. How many BTUs in the tank/how long will it last?
Seal off the door as best you can, air infiltration will cool it down in a hurry. You might also want to put something down on the floor (plywood?) to cut the cold from the concrete floor - it will soak right into you.
Last edited by Ace77; Oct 21, 2004 at 04:20 PM.
Instructor
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I would stay away from that style convection heater. They throw a lot of flame out around the top and are most often used on open construction sites. The tube style kerosene heater would be your best and least expensive way to go. They are easy on kerosene and use 110v for the power supply. Pretty safe to use and you can direct the heat anywhere you want/need it. I would recommend a 50 - 65,000 BTU model at a minimum for your region.
Unless you are very well insulated and have pretty much no leaks a baseboard heater will not get a garage warm enough to be real comfortable.
Unless you are very well insulated and have pretty much no leaks a baseboard heater will not get a garage warm enough to be real comfortable.
Race Director
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by motorpsycho502
I've tried both, and really you need both, the torpedo to get it warm and the propane infrared to keep it warm. if you just have a propane it takes too long to warm up, if you just have a torpedo it is loud and stinks some.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Engineers do it better.
If it take less than 2-3 hrs, that's fine. I usually plan ahead. Plus it's going to be turned on maybe 4-5 times a season. Stinky ones would not work, house is attached to the garage. Kerosin seems dangerous for some reason. I am looking for a convenient and economical way to heat for 4-6 hrs at a time on weekends.
Any opinions on baseboard ones?
Any opinions on baseboard ones?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by desi
If it take less than 2-3 hrs, that's fine. I usually plan ahead. Plus it's going to be turned on maybe 4-5 times a season. Stinky ones would not work, house is attached to the garage. Kerosin seems dangerous for some reason. I am looking for a convenient and economical way to heat for 4-6 hrs at a time on weekends.
Any opinions on baseboard ones?
Any opinions on baseboard ones?
are you concerned about propane tanks inthe garage/house?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Engineers do it better.
stpman, you spend most of your time in the garage. I am doing one cam/head swap all winter. I can't justify the cost of your setup.
Looks like most people are recommending kerosene one.....hmmm. stinky and dangerous??
Looks like most people are recommending kerosene one.....hmmm. stinky and dangerous??
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 139
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From: Austin Tx
If you use any option other than electric heat, PLEASE buy a corbon monoxide detecting alarm device. Using a non vented gas or kerosine heating appliance is playing with fire (no joke), remember carbon monoxide is invisible and has no oder. They are available at home supply stores.
Electric heating usually takes longer to get the space up to temperature than a gas fired unit.
Ask a propane supply outfit about Lp vs elect. cost to operate, they will of corse be biased but, comparing a Kw of electricity to a gal. of Lp can be done.
Electric heating usually takes longer to get the space up to temperature than a gas fired unit.
Ask a propane supply outfit about Lp vs elect. cost to operate, they will of corse be biased but, comparing a Kw of electricity to a gal. of Lp can be done.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
Aamir, dont be a candyass! Have a shot of whiskey and get out in the garage. When you feel a chill, repeat! 
I also agree with the above....get a carbon monoxide detector.
I also agree with the above....get a carbon monoxide detector.