When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The above statement makes me very uncomfortable. I am reminded of signs stating "Do Not Feed The Bears". This kind and simple act of lauding him for his knowledge & expertise may be very dangerous in the long run. I've done it a few times in private, but to do so in public where he can see it could lead to trouble! This guy perfers Nova's for heavens sake!!
Chuck
I've reformed Chuck. I'm a new man. I'm a kinder, gentler Dep. I wave at every rubber bumper Vette, even when I'm driving my pickup truck.
I even wear Corvette underwear.
AND A FREAKIN' YENKO SC NOVA WOULD FLATTEN YOUR VETTE, NO PROBLEMO!
[/QUOTE=Chuck Harmon]The above statement makes me very uncomfortable. I am reminded of signs stating "Do Not Feed The Bears". This kind and simple act of lauding him for his knowledge & expertise may be very dangerous in the long run. I've done it a few times in private, but to do so in public where he can see it could lead to trouble! This guy perfers Nova's for heavens sake!!
Chuck
[/QUOTE]
He did write something non abrasive for a change!
Positive reinforcement
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
I wave at every rubber bumper Vette, even when I'm driving my pickup truck.
I even wear Corvette underwear.
Sarcasm becomes the old and contrary
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
AND A FREAKIN' YENKO SC NOVA WOULD FLATTEN YOUR VETTE, NO PROBELMO!
[QUOTE=Summerfun
Yours maybe!
Mine?? Look again [/QUOTE]
Not too worried. Just one more opportunity to win another pizza bet with Dep. I gotta say this for Dep, he does pay up! It would be worth the 2000 miles just to see him and collect! He's almost as twisted as I am.
Chuck
Last edited by Chuck Harmon; Oct 23, 2004 at 06:50 PM.
Hey yall, I am looking for parts on this but I found the part that welds on the frame for the cross shaft to pivot on, can someone take or have a pic of this part if so can I have a close up and a far away to see where exactly on the frame it attaches.
I have the frame bracket. Free to you only...being a working student. I bought mine from Dr. Rebuild and don't need it. I think it's a NOS piece. 'Course, you'd still have to locate it on the frame and weld it on...
I'll see if I can dig it up today. Shop's kind of...um...misorganized.
I just completed my '75 coupe's 4spd conversion and had some minor issues. If you get a pedal assembly, try to make sure it came from a car that had the same as yours-power or manual. The driveshaft & yoke for an automatic '76 should be the same as a manual-was on my '75. This works if this tranny is a Super T-10, which came on Feb '74-'81 4spd Corvettes(except '78's where some Saginaw transmissions were used). Make sure you use(or this Camaro flywheel)is an 11 inch flywheel like all '69-'81 Corvettes came with or else you'll have to buy a Summit type "mini-starter"(like I did). Changing the pedal assembly is no piece o' cake either, very tight up in there. The bellhousing and clutch fork "should fit". The "Z" bar might even be the same as Corvette. You'll also have to acquire that piece that comes off of the trans crossmember where the manual transmission rubber mount bolts to. Also, the exhaust hangar on an automatic bolts to the back(at least on my '75's Turbo 400 it did)of the tranny whereas a manual front exhaust hangar bolts underneath the manual trans rubber mount. I had the "Z" bar mount welded in, but it was easy to do as the motor was out of my car and I was able to do it "in the engine compartment". Your speedometer cable too will be different from auto to manual trans. If you use/buy a Hurst Competition Plus shifter, it bolts directly to the side of the trans, instead of to a bracket which bolts to the trans crossmember. These holes will not be there on the automatic crossmember. Gettin' ready to fire mine up today here in a few minutes.
"They were capable of 0-60 shots in about four seconds; when outfitted with headers and slicks, they'd rage the quarter-mile in the high 10s"
Dep
You don't think I can do better than that with slicks?
Dep,Dep,Dep.....you don't have much confidence in the old s*&t box rubber bumper of mine
....and I thought you became a more gentle rubber bumper acceptee instead of that old brick with wheels
Never said that! What I was describing was a relatively inexpensive Nova that's major modification was the bolting in of an L72 engine.
Now if someone were to spend the money YOU have invested in your Vette in that cheapy Nova that is ALREADY turning high 10s...hehehe...see what I mean?
Never said that! What I was describing was a relatively inexpensive Nova that's major modification was the bolting in of an L72 engine.
Now if someone were to spend the money YOU have invested in your Vette in that cheapy Nova that is ALREADY turning high 10s...hehehe...see what I mean?
Dep
What does the Nova weigh? Considerably less than my 3600 odd lbs?
Well, yes then it will beat me with the same money invested.
But it will still look like a brick with wheels.
How much cutting has been done to it? I can cut mine to 2200lbs too!
However, I like my spare tire and no jack
Just go and look at the pics of my Sh$$ttya$$ rubber bumper....see how sweet she sits there
Sure, chrome bumpers beats that no argument here! Still sweet though
What does the Nova weigh? Considerably less than my 3600 odd lbs?
Well, yes then it will beat me with the same money invested.
But it will still look like a brick with wheels.
How much cutting has been done to it? I can cut mine to 2200lbs too!
However, I like my spare tire and no jack
Just go and look at the pics of my Sh$$ttya$$ rubber bumper....see how sweet she sits there
Sure, chrome bumpers beats that no argument here! Still sweet though
We weren't discussing which LOOKS "sweeter"...although I think I prefer the spartan Nova dedicated to performance over a bloated, rubber buggy bumper Vette (Not to say yours IS bloated).
BTW...NO cutting has been done to it at all. They start with a stock 1969 Nova SS396 and replace the motor with an L72 427. But don't worry, unless you run into a clone, they only built around 30 of them.
Here's more details and some nicer pics:
Paul, it does look as if I am getting the pedal assembly, thank you for the reply it really does help me, but I still need an exact picture of where the bracet needs to be located! If there is any other information I should need please email me if you dont mind. Two questions, should I pull the steering column to get the pedal in easier, and second will I need to cut the firewall, I am pretty sure I would but I am just making sure!
CGGorman, thank you for considering sending it to me it would help me out alot! If you wouldn't mind emailing you and I'll pay for the shipping, also I will give you an address to send it to.
Paul, it does look as if I am getting the pedal assembly, thank you for the reply it really does help me, but I still need an exact picture of where the bracet needs to be located! If there is any other information I should need please email me if you dont mind. Two questions, should I pull the steering column to get the pedal in easier, and second will I need to cut the firewall, I am pretty sure I would but I am just making sure!
CGGorman, thank you for considering sending it to me it would help me out alot! If you wouldn't mind emailing you and I'll pay for the shipping, also I will give you an address to send it to.
wgc: Sorry...didn't mean to hijack.
You don't need to PULL the steering column to get the pedals in. Just unbolt the bolts that hold it up INSIDE the car and support it with something. That will give you better access to the pedals.
No firewall cutting is necessary if you lower the steering column. There is already a hole with a plug in the firewall where the linkage goes through. As far as locating EXACTLY where to weld the bracket on the frame for the Z-bar....you can come close, but each car is going to vary somewhat on it's location. What you want is a line on the z-bar tube as straight as possible from the block to the bracket so that there is no binding.
You might try using C-clamps first to attach the bracket so that you can move it around and line it up. When you have it exactly where you want it C-clamp it and Epoxy it. If it seems to work allright after the Epoxy hardens, then weld it there.
you've got your work cut out for you, good luck, and don't forget about setting aside some money for when school comes along. there are always unexpected costs, and you may become very broke. I know I have...
You sure make it difficult to dump on you when you come up with usefull information! What more can I cay?
Chuck
Thanks Chuck. I just hope my conversion goes easily too. I've given the whole process a lot of thought before actually doing the switch. I'll be using a new Muncie M22 from this place: http://www.4speeds.com/muncie.htm
I hope to have the engine and trans yanked out before the snow flies
wgc: Good luck with the swap. Feel free to e-mail if you need help.
Bill,
Here's a couple pics of the bracket. I took a few measurements for you, but like Dep pointed out, there will be small variances from car to car. So get it srtaight (and working properly) then final weld. Good luck with the swap!