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I think you're meaning to address TwinTurbo. The flipped bracket can be done on everything up to 80-82. The differential case and struts changed drastically in those years. I still want to see a bracket mounted like that in person, I'm suspicious of it's rigidity.
Marck, what do you think of my idea of adding the stock central mounting plate to a dual mount setup?
I started off with the same idea of just reusing my old A arms and rebuilding the front end with new bushings but once I got them off and noticed how bad they were. It was no longer an option for me.
They were so bent out of shape that I couldn't get the new ball joints to fit.
In my opinion, save the money and time and do it right, all at once.
Here are pics of the almost finshed install.
Once it was done, the difference was night and day. The steering was actually responsive for the first time since I got her.
I did the rear end as well and I have a bunch of high detailed pics of both if you would like to see the whole process.
KO
And yes it is pretty easy to install (Once I ripped that damm fan shroud out.)
Last edited by kortensi; Oct 28, 2004 at 10:17 AM.
Norval, using the lower bracket up top, isn't that what Brutus did? It looks to me like it would be simpler to just fab a backet that is right for the rod end width. Maybe you would have to shim the rod end or the bracket to diff connection a little to get a match but it would be a lot narrower and you would get away from those long bolts.
I can't see using any bracket. You make a bracket so it bolts to the rearend, then the rearend bolts to the crossmember. Why not just weld a stud directly to the crossmember and forget the bracket. The stud is quick and easy to make, welds directly to the crossmember. I did it that way after making 2 brackets then looking at them and thinking WHY?
Norval, there's no crossmember on 80-82, the crossmember is part of the diff and it's crappy ALCOA aluminium, I would not weld any suspension members stuff to that and expect it to hold up.
Norval, there's no crossmember on 80-82, the crossmember is part of the diff and it's crappy ALCOA aluminium, I would not weld any suspension members stuff to that and expect it to hold up.
I don't know about an 80-82 just my older C3's. I would have to get under there and think about how to make up a center link.
Marck, what do you think of my idea of adding the stock central mounting plate to a dual mount setup?
Making it a 3 mount? That would maybe help but I'm not sure if it fits like that, is there a dual setup for the 80-82 diff? If so, how does it mount? Does it bolt to the batwing?
Making it a 3 mount? That would maybe help but I'm not sure if it fits like that,
me neither, and now that I look at the springs, those outside mounts don't look like they'd do a very good job of isolating the center section of the spring. Putting a mount in the center might drastically increase spring rate.
Might be an urban legend, but I read somewhere that the top and bottom links need to be the same length, which is 13.50" and mounted so the top and bottom rod ends are lined up straight.
The rods have to line up w/ their pivot points, so on the hub side you draw a line through the lower rod end or eye, through the center of the u joint and then the upper one has to line up, the distance of the upper rod to the 1/2 shaft influences where it goes. Same for the inside.
From: WAY DEEP INSIDE AMERICO,YES YOU LIVE HERE TO!! TX
Originally Posted by LiveandLetDrive
me neither, and now that I look at the springs, those outside mounts don't look like they'd do a very good job of isolating the center section of the spring. Putting a mount in the center might drastically increase spring rate.
For the money - the C6 is the best value. Sure, you can spend $30 - $50K more for a Viper, Porsche or the like, but dollar-for-dollar the Corvette has the most HP with the best handling in a true two seat sports car - add to that, great re-sale.
Just MHO
Cheers
Sorry! I don't agree with you after going to the GM "Test Drive" and driving a Z51/6speed C6 around the autocross course. I'll take my wife's C5 Z06 anyday over the 400hp? C6. The 400 "ponies" in the C6 are different ones than the 405 in my wife's Z06. Thanks to the program being run by a "Traitor" former Cadillac Allante Engineer (Dave Hill) our Corvette is seeing more and more compromise every year in the name of ride and comfort. The C6 again sees a increase of wheelbase and decrease of track so the XLR will ride better for the "Country Club" crowd, this will cause the car to have less "turn-in" and wider radiuus cornering performance than the earlier Corvettes (I even notice it in the Z06 when I compare it to the C2/3/4 Vettes.) GM made a BIG mistake by never selling the Z06 in Europe, it would have been a good seller over there but, they would have had to properly engineer the engine: no powder metal connecting rods, and improved oil cooling for extended Autobahn performance. They would have had to improve the transaxel cooling for extended high speed running too but, just took the easy way out and never engineered the car for European useage! The Z06 would have SILENCED! the English car critics and put them in their proper place!
GM made a BIG mistake by never selling the Z06 in Europe, it would have been a good seller over there but, they would have had to properly engineer the engine: no powder metal connecting rods, and improved oil cooling for extended Autobahn performance. They would have had to improve the transaxel cooling for extended high speed running too but, just took the easy way out and never engineered the car for European useage! The Z06 would have SILENCED! the English car critics and put them in their proper place!
Finally someone that understands ZO6s are being sold here through grey import, that means they actually have a type approval for the car and GM could start selling it. As for the problems you mention, they should have known that from past experience, a couple C4s went up in flames on the german autobahn because of overheatings diffs or engine fires